Veteran India Gate faces off with newbie Sansad Bhavan

The national capital’s ambitious Central Vista Project inaugurated last year threw a curveball for heritage tour organisers. The top players weigh in on what’s working in their favour and what they could do without

Dilli ki sardi. Sunday book club brunches in Lodhi Garden. Afternoon cycle trails in Lutyens’ Delhi. Sunsets at Humayun’s Tomb. Night strolls by Qutb Minar.

The mention of these charming scenes during the endless Delhi versus Mumbai debate is probably the only odd occasion when hardcore Mumbaikars, including this writer, throw in the towel. Come winter, and parts of Delhi present historic, mystical and romantic avatars of its neighbourhoods. It’s also peak season for its well-oiled walking tour and heritage trail communities because the pleasant weather translates to morning, afternoon, evening as well as night walks. 

Sachin Bansal, founder, Delhi Walks 

This year, a new inclusion, the ambitious Central Vista Project in Lutyens’ Delhi, is nudging them to relook at the compass.

Sachin Bansal, chief explorer-founder of Delhi Walks, and organiser of the ongoing first Delhi Walks Festival, feels that the Central Vista Project is an opportunity to explore and showcase this evolving landscape with its new landmarks and sites. “We organise the Kartavya Path Heritage Experience as a bespoke, tailor-made walk to suit individual preferences,” adds Bansal, about the renamed Rajpath, which was built as a ceremonial boulevard around the 1920s by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker. Kartavya Path, inaugurated in September 2022, stretches from the statue of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose to Rashtrapati Bhavan. Bansal believes that this development has ignited discussions surrounding heritage conservation and urban design, while offering a chance to unravel Delhi’s ever-changing narrative. 

Delhi By Cycle completes 15 years in 2024. Seen here is a group in front of Rashtrapati Bhavan with barricades in the immediate background

Ramit Mitra, founder of Delhi By Foot (DBF), who has been conducting two walks in the Rajpath-India Gate area since 2014, has a slightly different take. When the Central Vista opened, DBF felt that a few new versions of their Making of New Delhi Walk and Princely Palaces of Delhi Walk could be curated. “But no new spot has opened up,” he admits, adding that he hasn’t experienced a spike in requests as expected. “Local interest hasn’t been high.” Mitra shares that interest in these walks is higher from Bengaluru, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and Pune, with requests from educational institutions for the New Delhi walks seeing a spike.  

Anoushka Jain, founder of Enroute Indian History (EIH), Delhi’s only all-women-run walks platform that also conducts women-only walks, including at night, has mixed feelings about the altered landscape. “I don’t think there is a fascination for new structures, including the new Parliament House. India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan continue to remain all-time favourites. India Gate is a sentiment. Dilliwalahs have fond childhood memories attached to it, just like Mumbaikars have for Gateway of India.”

Participants halt at India Gate with the Bose Canopy in the background, as part of the bespoke Kartavya Path Heritage Experience organised by Delhi Walks, the city’s oldest walks company that began in 2010; (right) Himadri Giri, operations head and director, Delhi By Cycle

One of the reasons for the lukewarm response could be the limited access to key landmarks. “Till 2019, the trail started at the top of Raisina Hill and ended at India Gate. It got discontinued due to the farmers’ protests and the pandemic-induced lockdowns. However, even after COVID-19 restrictions were lifted and before construction began in full swing at the revamped Central Vista avenue, they had changed the rules where groups weren’t allowed to the top of Raisina Hill. Previously, from this vantage point, participants could see the Secretariat buildings and Rashtrapati Bhavan. It made for a memorable evening walk, but now the group has to stay within a boundary,” she reveals, adding that this has created a disconnect with the landmark. She isn’t gung-ho about charting new walks here; it could get underwhelming for the participants due to limited access. Interestingly, EIH’s digital walks that offer full access to these landmarks are currently witnessing more sign-ups. 

Mitra agrees with Jain, “With the latest set of extra VIP security rings around the new Parliament building, and proposed work sites near the President’s House, access to those areas has been curtailed after the Central Vista Project reopened last year.” Security protocols have affected another popular registered walk by EIH, Raat Ke Afsaane. This sundowner special explores sites like the Red Fort, Qutb Minar, Safdarjung’s Tomb, Sunder Nursery, Humayun’s Tomb and Rashtrapati Bhavan. People used to enjoy the lit landmarks and fountain shows, and would round off a magical wintry evening with a meal at Connaught Place. “But now Rashtrapati Bhavan isn’t part of this experience,” rues Jain.

A group reaches the Qutb Minar complex as part of Enroute Indian History’s (EIH) Raat Ke Afsane tour. Founded in 2019, the platform believes that monuments should be kept open after sunset to ensure more footfalls and better awareness of Delhi’s heritage

Like walking tour organisers, cycling group Delhi By Cycle has also tweaked its routes. Himadri Giri, its founder, shares, “Our Raj_The New Delhi bicycle tour has been running for nearly 15 years. To ensure a smooth experience, we start by 6.45 am, and wrap up before traffic and crowds build up. The route we used to take had to be tweaked when [Central Vista] construction began.” Starting the tour from scratch was a time-consuming process, but it was necessary to maintain the essence of the experience, so Giri and her team have since continued with the new customised route (Our Raj The New Delhi bicycle tour) that she feels is more convenient. “Our tour now covers a 12-km distance, with six stops that include refreshments and breakfast breaks. The duration has been shortened by 30 minutes; the earlier route was a 15 km-stretch. Initially, the group would halt at India Gate for storytelling, but that part has been skipped because they need to return via Kartavya Path that remains open till 8 am for cyclists.” 

For Giri, it’s a learning curve, “We are gradually embracing new opportunities. Clients experience the storytelling and the scenery on bicycles along quieter roads with less traffic like Minto Road from our parking spot to reach Connaught Place. Previously, it was via Paharganj; the reason we cut out Paharganj is because we needed to reach Kartavya Path by 8 am.” She reveals that while many appreciate the new routes (via Connaught Place, India Gate/President’s House, Hailey Road, Barakhamba), some returning clients still find the old route more memorable and adventurous.

Yulu bike tours is a new introduction by EIH to get people excited about urban heritage and culture

Despite its issues, Mitra highlights the positives, “There is better signage with ease of walking through the newly-made underpasses; there are exhibits like archival photos from the last 112 years portraying the growth of New Delhi; there are more toilets along the entire stretch. Access ramps for the elderly and differently-abled have made our existing walks easier.” Better lighting for DBF’s popular evening walks at Central Vista has added to the appeal. 

Jain agrees that the archival underpass has helped participants avoid traffic, but feels that while it was a straight walk earlier where you first crossed Rafi Marg, and then Janpath to reach India Gate, “now, you need to use the underpass to reach here; it is exhausting for some of our participants”.

Anoushka Jain, founder, Enroute Indian History

A former employee at Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts (IGNCA), Jain believes that this redrawing could spell good news for cultural institutions. “IGNCA is one of the buildings to be relocated to the Central Vista. My former colleagues were positive with the modern, improved amenities. Other cultural centres like the National Museum are also being moved here, which could increase footfall,” she reasons, believing that they could get their due, once positioned along the Central Axis, as it will get more accessible. “We may even add a gallery from the Museum as a halt on our walks, and thus, add more content for consumption. As it is, one cannot reach the top of Raisina Hill. No matter how much I egg the group to crane their necks to see beyond the barricades, they could lose patience. So, such a relocation [of cultural institutions] along the Central Axis can be beneficial, as long as security protocols don’t restrict entry.” 

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