How to dress for an identity crisis?

Masaba Gupta’s latest collection shows that jewellery is more than just sparkle—it’s a statement of growth, self-invention and shedding labels

The Nandi bull has been a loyal mascot of the House of Masaba since 2010, when it first charged onto the fashion scene. What began as a print evolved into a foil, a digital design, and even a stone sculpture in stores. It’s since been reimagined as an 18-carat gold pendant with emeralds. Similarly, the Haath Phool, Hamsa, Palm, Camera and Candy motifs have become milestones in the brand’s journey.

Masaba Gupta, the founder and designer behind the brand, has an instinctive ability to anticipate the next big thing. She was the first to go digital in 2015 with the Sugar Plum collection. Her “serial collaborator” label has since seen successful partnerships with brands like Titan Raga, Nykaa, Samsung, and Ekaya. “Every collaboration I do feels like an internship—learning from scratch, learning from the best. It’s about coming together with someone who shares a stake in a very crowded market,” says Gupta.

Family that shines together — Masaba Gupta’s fine jewellery debut stars her actor mom, Neena Gupta, and actor husband, Satyadeep Misra, in the Identity Crisis campaign, wearing the Ripple Effect and Toffee Wife neckpieces

In 2022, she launched Lovechild, her beauty line, shortly after Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail Limited (ABFRL) took a 51 per cent stake in Masaba Lifestyle for R98 crore. “Mother to Matara” is another title in the 35-year-old’s repertoire. “Motherhood is oddly rewarding,” she says. “Sure, it’s tiring, but it gives you a sense of accomplishment.”

Now, Gupta is making headlines with Identity Crisis, her debut fine jewellery collection in collaboration with Jaipur’s Amrapali Jewels. She shares that this move is the result of careful thought and trust in her partner, Tarang Arora, CEO and creative director at Amrapali Jewels. “It’s the first time I feel like I’ve nailed the collection at the right time—both personally and for the brand. Now, I see jewellery as a big part of the brand’s future.”

Jewellery as an extension of your personality — from mini to max, and everything in between. Model Kirandeep Chahal in House of Masaba x Amrapali pieces

“Today’s buyer wants something unique—pieces that won’t be available everywhere,” says Arora. “Each piece tells a story of heritage while celebrating individuality and self-expression.” The 46-piece collectibles include bracelets, necklaces, cuffs, and earrings crafted in 18k gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and non-traditional coloured stones like pink and green tourmalines, peridots, tanzanite and quartz. Prices range from Rs 1 lakh to Rs 30 lakh.

The collection’s defining detail is the red dot, a signature logo perched on the plump contours of the Masaba brand font, now quietly residing behind each piece as a speck—like a steadfast companion, always there but never ostentatious.

In this interview, the designer opens up about her evolving journey, why she’s ready to say goodbye to signature “rani pink,” her pivot into luxury, and how she’s turning the “identity crisis” into her latest statement piece. 

Edited excerpts.

Luxury jewellery was once at odds with fleeting fashion—what made you bridge this?
I feel like we were late to the fine jewellery party. Looking back at my earlier collections, like the bridal pieces from 2012-13, I see how I blended traditional Indian elements with modern twists—experimenting with whites, ivories, and red dots, pushing boundaries at the time. Tarang [Arora] once asked why I didn’t design bridal jewellery. But while jewellery has traditionally been tied to weddings or heirlooms, my focus is on creating pieces for today’s woman—timeless, self-invested jewellery in gold, that holds cultural significance and lasting value.

The change in perspective really began when I designed the rani pink saree with the Masaba print. Over time, it made me question whether we were limiting ourselves to one aesthetic. I realised we could be more than just one thing, and that shift has carried over into the jewellery collection. Honestly, I just don’t want to do rani pink ever again. Like, ever.
 
How does this jewellery line cater to the evolving needs of women?
Fashion remains central to my brand, but my customers are evolving, and they’re seeking jewellery that’s meaningful and versatile. I noticed the need for pieces that complement everyday wear, like a diamond tennis necklace, simple gold chains, or understated earrings. That’s why we created the “white shirt jewellery” line—because many women, like me, wear shirts regularly and want jewellery that can elevate casual or workwear.
 
How has your understanding of your customers’ evolving needs shaped your designs?
There’s a real connection I feel with my customers, even without spending much time on the shop floor. When I win, it feels like a personal win for them, and when I mess up, I know they feel it too. It’s an ongoing dialogue, even if we’re not face-to-face.

As the brand and I have grown, so have my customers. Early on, younger women couldn’t afford higher-end pieces, but they’ve grown with me. They’ve moved from prints to embracing more sophisticated items like fine jewellery, shifting from hesitation to full confidence. This journey with my customers reflects my own growth. I know when I succeed, they succeed with me.
 
Is there a story behind Identity Crisis, the title of your fine jewellery collection?
Identity Crisis reflects my personal growth and self-realisation. Even before motherhood, I craved something deeper, beyond perceptions of privilege and the labels of being the daughter of Neena Gupta and Vivian Richards.

Now, I’m focused on creating pieces that align with my values. The campaign captures House of Masaba’s awakening to a new identity while staying true to its roots and visual storytelling, celebrating growth and reinvention—much like the brand and I, fearlessly navigating this new chapter.

Charm necklaces as personal talismans

Masaba Gupta’s guide to styling jewellery.

Mix, match, and make it personal:
Don’t mix just for the sake of it—mix because it feels right. I love pairing a Kolhapuri Saaz with a tennis necklace, a Sat Lada, and a long string of pearls, maybe South Indian hair clips for a full look. Wear it over a white shirt with jeans, mixing metals like silver earrings with gold. Just avoid mixing metals on printed clothes—solids work better. A turtleneck is perfect for mixing antique and modern jewellery, acting as a blank canvas.

Former supermodel Madhu Sapre wears the Maharani Maker neckpiece, stacked earrings, and cuffs inspired by the House of Masaba mascots

The new twist on curated ear accessories?
Earrings are a go-to for confidence. The ear cuff or dangler trend is all about making a statement. It’s not about the clothes, but how you accessorise.  A bold earring paired with a nude lip and a white shirt speaks to your personality. What was once about coloured hair now shows in how you style your lips and ears.

How to build a charm necklace or bracelet?
For me, charm necklaces are personal talismans of protection and positivity, representing milestones like the Nandi, camera, or palm. Your charm should have a personal connection, guiding and reminding you of where you’ve been and where you want to go.

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