This restaurant in Lower Parel mixes edgy street art with bold, unapologetic flavours of pizzas, smash burgers, panuozzo, and bar bites
A view of the graffiti on the walls of the restaurant. Pics/Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
In hindsight, we are glad that we didn’t head to Lil Gamby in Lower Parel with our kids. We would’ve been tongue-tied, trying to reveal the letters masked by asterisks in F****N and or B***H for dishes on the menu, or explain what ‘knock me up’ means on the menu.
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The space had started as a humble cloud kitchen during the second lockdown and since then, has expanded into restaurant formats across Chembur, Khar West, and Versova, but this one at Lower Parel, which has come up in place of Cafe Panama (and Cafe Zoe before that) is bold and has playful interiors. Inspired by Shaan Gidwani’s (founder, Acapella Hospitality) travels and experiences, the restaurant blends global street culture with a distinct Bombay vibe, drawing from hotspots like Miami’s Wynwood, London’s Shoreditch, and Brooklyn. There’s also a game zone with air hockey to chill at.
Gamey mistress pizza
Lil Gamby’s menu includes signature sourdough pizzas, smash burgers, panuozzo, and bar bites. The Neapolitan-style pizzas, with a 48-hour cold-fermented crust, are topped with buffalo mozzarella, premium Italian ingredients, and local flavours. We tried The gamey mistress (R475) pizza, with its San Marzano tomato base, burrata, mozzarella, and scamorza. The crust was beautifully airy, but the balance between the two kinds of cheese — soft burrata and mozzarella and sharp-tasting scamorza — was slightly off.
Chef’s hangover cure
The ghee roast tacos (Rs 435) hit hard with bold spices wrapped in a flaky Malabar parotta, offering a daring flavour twist to this Mangalorean staple. Simply put, it was like eating ghee roast with paratha; a fiery option that will please spice-loving patrons. While it may seem incorrect to compare, considering that we loved Cafe Panama’s fish tacos, this dish should have been called anything else but tacos.
Ghee roast tacos
Chef’s hangover cure pasta (Rs 495) was the highlight: silky, al dente pappardelle twirled in a rich, comforting pulled lamb ragu felt like a warm, flavourful hug — perfectly balanced and deeply satisfying. It was also high on the spice levels. The drinks were refreshingly simple. We enjoyed the Feisty taxi (R295), a lively blend of guava, orange, cranberry, peach, and lime, and their in-house iced tea (R235). For those keen to get bolder, there’s a selection of 16 craft beers, including collaborations with local breweries like Drifters and Rolling Mills.
Lil Gamby iced tea (right) Feisty taxi (red)
Lil Gamby’s vibe is unapologetically rebellious — a sports bar meets street culture, designed for a casual, come-as-you-are crowd of adults under 35. We might return to appreciate the vibrant art on display, courtesy of the city’s talent, and relive the place come alive.
Lil Gamby
AT Lower Parel Compound, SJ Marg, Lower Parel.
Time 12 pm to 1 am (deliveries until 5 am)
**** Exceptional, *** Excellent, ** very Good, * Good, Average. Lil Gamby didn’t know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals
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