A week-long celebration turns the spotlight on the culinary legacy of this indigenous community that boasts of strong ties with the original island city
A traditional thali
In an age where people are turning away from meat, chef Bimba Nayak heartily stands by it. Not surprising, since the septuagenarian traces her roots to a native community that has etched its presence in their city since the 13th century. This week, the chef will bring her heritage, generational knowledge of the Pathare Prabhu cuisine and stories to the restaurant, South of Vindhyas, in a week-long Pathare Prabhu festival that begins tomorrow in Vile Parle.
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Bombil methkuta che
“We [Pathare Prabhus] do not have a native place, you know,” Nayak jovially remarks, “There was no ‘mamachya gaavala jaau’ [let us go to uncle’s village] in the summers for us.” The chef has spent over five decades to put the spotlight back on this culinary legacy. “We were the first settlers of the seven islands alongside the Kolis and later, the Parsis and other communities,” she remarks.
Diverse influences
Prawns khichdi
Like Mumbai’s cosmopolitan culture, the Pathare Prabhu cuisine was also coloured by many cultures. “The community travelled down from the Aravalli mountain ranges through Rajasthan and Gujarat. They often worked with several rulers from Muslim kings to the Peshwas, British, Portuguese and the French,” Nayak shares.
Not all influences are foreign. The ghada, for instance, is a popular one-pot dish made with over 20 vegetables thrown together with ghol fish, mutton or prawns and cooked. “This is a non-vegetarian undhiyu that is eaten with tel poli or churma ladoo. In such instances, you see the influence of Rajasthan and Gujarati cuisine,” she points out.
Bimba Nayak
An open secret in the community was the recipe book, Gruhini Mitra written by Lakshmibai Dhurandar in the 19th century. “It had recipes created from European, French and Chinese influences. Imagine a lady in a kashta saree documenting all these back then, and so beautifully?” she says.
Defining features
So, what defines the community’s cuisine, we ask? Meat is the one definite answer. “It is a heavily non-vegetarian cuisine. Even the daily vegetables came with a component of prawns or fish,” she explains. Except for the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi, the community celebrated their feasts with meat-based dishes.
Mutton gode
“We also had a fondness for big fish — rawas, pomfret and ghol. The small fish were given away to helpers,” Nayak shares. Naturally, the markets became a hub for the community. “We would buy fish at the Grant Road market, or Andheri and Khar fish markets. But the best fish was always in town, near Bhaucha Dhakka,” the chef recalls.
Taste of heritage
All of these influences will come together in the celebration at the South of Vindhyas through the week. Dishes like bhanavle, pomfret bhujne, mutton gode will make their appearance. “The awareness about the cuisine has grown in the last decade, but I wanted to remind people of the taste of Mumbai’s native cuisine,” chef Nayak notes.
Shubhamoy Banerjee, general manager of The Orchid Hotel, where the festival will be held, adds, “With our focus on authentic cuisine, it seemed natural to invite our patrons to taste the unique and diverse cuisine of the Pathare Prabhu community.”
For Nayak, nothing beats the food. “It is a delectable and diverse variety. The only drawback is that the community has been reserved in sharing these recipes. But now, things are changing. I hope more people discover the joy of these dishes,” she concludes.
FROM July 26 to August 4; 7 pm onwards
AT South of Vindhyas, The Orchid Hotel Mumbai, Nehru Road, Vile Parle East.
CALL 9169166789
COST Rs 1,699 onwards (vegetarian buffet); Rs 2,222 onwards (non-vegetarian buffet)
Prawns khadkhadile
Ingredients
>> 12 large prawns
>> 3 tbsp oil
>> 1/4 tsp hing (asafoetida)
>> 1 tbsp garlic paste
>> 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
>> 3 tsp spicy chili powder
>> 2 tsp Prabhu sambar masala
Method
Heat some oil in a pan. Add hing and sauté until fragrant. To this, add minced garlic and sauté until they are golden brown. Add cleaned prawns and dry spices. Adjust salt to taste. Add a small amount of water to cover the prawns. Cook until the prawns are well done, and the water has evaporated. Serve hot with
steamed rice.
Chutney cha saranga
Ingredients
>> 1 pomfret
>> 1 grated coconut
>> Salt to taste
>> Fresh coriander (kothimbir)
>> 5 ml lemon juice (to taste)
>> 2 to 3 green chillies (as per taste)
>> 1 tsp turmeric powder
>> 1 tsp red chilli powder
>> Oil for deep frying
Method
For the chutney: Combine grated coconut, chopped coriander, green chillies, salt, turmeric powder, and red chilli powder in a mortar and pestle. Grind into a coarse paste. Adjust the spice level according to your preference. Stir in lemon juice for a tangy flavour.
For the pomfret: Clean and gut the pomfret. Carefully stuff the chutney mixture into the cavity of the fish. Secure the opening with toothpicks or skewers.
For frying: Heat oil in a deep fryer or a heavy-bottomed pan. Gently lower the stuffed pomfret into the hot oil. Fry until golden brown and cooked through. Drain excess oil on paper towels. Serve the chutney cha
saranga hot with your favourite dipping sauce or chutney.
Eating Guide
Where else to eat Pathare Prabhu fare
>> Dine with Vijaykars
AT 8, Gurukrupa, Saraswati Baug, Jogeshwari East.
LOG ON TO @dinewithvijaykars
>> Kalpana’s Kitchen
AT Khanderao Smruti, Dattapada Road, Borivali East.
LOG ON TO @kalpanatalpade on Instagram
>> Gossip and Garnish
CALL 7506264307
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