Against the grain

Even as the future of food businesses looks dire in the face of pandemic-related restrictions, new restaurants are opening their doors against all odds. But, why now?

The Coronavirus pandemic has hit most industries, but few have felt the impact as acutely as hospitality. The Indian hotel industry has taken a hit of over R1.30 lakh crore in revenue for the fiscal year 2020-21 due to the pandemic, according to the Federation of Hotel and Restaurant Associations of India (FHRAI). The sector saw a glimmer of hope as cases dropped sharply in the country after the first wave, only to be thrust back into an existential crisis. Why, then, would somebody want to open a restaurant during the most unpredictable time in recent history? 

Three restaurateurs who have launched their brick and mortar establishments in the last one year talk about the economics of taking the plunge.

‘The thali will never go out of fashion’
Aji Nair Director, Berryblue Hospitality Private Ltd and founder, Rasotsav, Andheri West

We launched Rasotsav, a vegetarian thali restaurant, this year after a wait of 15 months. The Coronavirus pandemic isn’t leaving us anytime soon, so we needed to work our way around it. The good part is that it hasn’t stopped people from stepping out and dining at restaurants. What we realised is that premium hospitality brands are doing good business because people are looking for high safety and hygiene standards, and will visit places that inspire confidence. Of course, nobody is making profits at this juncture. It’s not even covering our overhead costs, but the landscape could change if they allow us to operate for longer hours.

Aji Nair was instrumental in launching one of the largest thali chains in the country a decade ago. He launched Rasotsav in June to fulfil his dream of owning a thali restaurant. Pics/Anurag Ahire

At this point, you can run a restaurant only if the owner, the landlord and the staff are ready to make certain sacrifices, including  lowering the rent or accepting a salary cut. If these parties are on the same page, you can soldier on. 

This is my 20th year in the hospitality business. I was instrumental in setting up one of the largest thali chains in the country; thali is what I’m passionate about. What works in its favour is the variety—I serve nothing less than 30 items. A buffet might have the same variety, but it requires you to get up and go to the counter. Here, it’s being served to you. As a patron, you also know that what you’re being served is fresh and straight out of the kitchen. There’s no waiting period; you’re served as soon as you are ready. It’s unlimited and the hospitality is warm and friendly. A thali is said to be a representation of six tastes [sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent]. And that it’s age-agnostic works in its favour. It’s a concept that can never run out of fashion in India.

I had been on the hunt for new digs for nearly two years. I managed to find my dream space only in the lockdown—good location, on the ground floor, and with valet parking. Right now, my main challenge is retaining manpower. The fear is that if there’s another lockdown, they might leave for their villages.

‘When the chips are down, the only way is up’
Vedant Shah CEO and founder, Plural, Fort

I have harboured a passion for food and beverage, but always thought of it as a hobby. It’s funny that it turned into a serious endeavour when the hospitality sector was witnessing one of its most destablising downturns. I started interning at a fine dine restaurant in early 2020. Ideally, I would have liked to work at a couple of establishments before turning entrepreneur. But nobody wanted an intern who had nothing to give. As devastating as the lockdown was, it gave me the time to get to the drawing board. It’s in the middle of last year that I decided to take the plunge. It [opening a restaurant] was and continues to be a risk. As they say, when the chips are down, the only way is up.

Vedant Shah, 25, opened Plural to serve cuisine from Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Pic/Bipin Kokate

The 1,900-sqft Plural that now stands in Kala Ghoda is not what I had originally envisioned. I had a much smaller space in mind. That said, I set up the restaurant, keeping in mind that it is here to stay. With so many restaurant closures, landlords have realised that they have to be accommodating. Which is how I even managed to land a place in South Mumbai. The audience in SoBo is an eclectic mix, and more experimental [than the suburban resident]. The area has a motley mix of lawyers, stockbrokers, designers, who represent a section of the TG that we are eyeing. We wanted to open sometime around March this year, and that’s when the second wave hit. Again, we had to adapt and pivot; something the pandemic has compelled businesses to do. Although I was keen on opening dining first followed by delivery, there’s only so much I could wait. So, we started with delivery in May and we launched dining two months later. The response has been encouraging.  Our model is built around dine-in; everything is meant to be enjoyed fresh. We offer South East Asian food, Vietnamese being one of the key regions we represent. It’s a niche cuisine, there isn’t much here when it comes to food from Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. What I find striking about it is the vibrancy of the cuisine, the use of herbs, and the generous dose of spices.

‘Chembur needed a great coffee and sandwich option’
Rachi Gupta Executive chef and founder, The Bread Bar, Chembur

After working in France and Spain, I was disappointed by the lack of great coffee and bread options in Chembur. My friends, family and I would regularly travel to Bandra or SoBo to get good grub and coffee. A major factor that I had to bear in mind before launching the Bread Bar was whether I would be able to pay the rent for the kitchen and my employees’ salaries, especially since we are still facing Covid-19 restrictions. When we started building the kitchen in January, the restrictions had just been lifted after the first wave and we were excited to start this venture.

Rachi Gupta, 22, at the Bread Bar, which offers freshly baked goods, including hand-rolled New York style bagels, flavoured sweet and savoury Babka,  Japanese-style milk bread and keto-friendly almond bread and sourdough. Pic/Shadab Khan

The market for artisanal breads is still very small in Mumbai given that most people are hesitant about purchasing a bread that will cost them 10 times more than a commercially produced product they buy cheap at a general store. However, it [the market] is gradually growing in size as more people become aware of the different kinds of breads being made around the world and appreciate the high quality of artisanal products.

It is extremely difficult to run an establishment when operating hours are restricted, like they have been right through the pandemic. At the moment, we are focusing on pickup, deliveries and online orders. It has been a humbling experience actually, and on some days, my small team and I are overwhelmed by the orders. On slow days, we spend time working on new items for the menu. In my opinion, hospitality is still a very attractive business proposition in Mumbai because the people of this city are adventurous and open to new experiences. All entertainment industries have been affected by the restrictions, including theatres, sporting and performing establishments, but restaurants are still able to offer some respite to people from the changes brought about by the pandemic.

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