Our sutradhaars—Lady Flora and Sir PM—are back in the bay, after attending a key conference in Calcutta, and have much to discuss from that visit
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Lady Flora had developed a tan for the first time in decades. Sir PM had just recovered from a heatstroke-type scare. Yet, both seemed in reasonably good spirits as they caught up in the shaded, comforting confines of the cathedral after a week of R&R. “My lady, I dreamt of that heavenly rossogulla even on the first day of my illness. I feel it had something to do in my speedy recovery post that nasty period of unease and exhaustion. After all, I was itching to pop in one as soon as I was feeling better,” Sir PM smiled. His friend knew all too well of that feeling. After all, both had experienced the most prized Bengali sweets while on their weeklong visit to India’s former capital city for the annual all-India Statue Conference. “My favourite was the nolen gurer sandesh, the seasonal delicacy,” Lady Flora recalled, “Sweets aside, I think it was a visit filled with discoveries and reality checks.”
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“Indeed. I wasn’t expecting such a huge turnout. No doubt, representation-wise, Calcutta won hands-down. It was good to catch up with my contemporaries, Subhas Bose, Kazi Nazrul Islam, and of course, Tagore babu. What fine work, I must admit…” Sir PM said. “But I also noticed how sculptors have been rather busy in the city, in general. So many statues, both of famous people and common, slice-of-life and key representations across the city,” he justified. “What do you mean, Pheroze?” Lady Flora asked, wondering if something had missed her hawk-eye observations. “I was referring to the volume of statues, installations and busts across the city. Whether it is a group of Baul performers, freedom fighters or literary and cultural personalities— male and female, they celebrate them all. I like that it isn’t pompous but functional, good craftsmanship.”
“Absolutely. You remember what that gent in the Potter’s Colony of Kumartuli told us…about being busy all year? If not sculpting idols for their festivals, they are tied up with these requests. It was part of the streetscape in the city wherever we went,” Lady Flora shared. “I am still reeling from Her Majesty’s exquisite white statue that adorns the centre of Victoria Memorial Hall. Many close. But my word! Hers was something else. Little wonder there was such a clamour for pictures with her,” she chuckled. Sir PM’s eyes widened, “Ahem, she actually congratulated me on my calm yet strong character. I returned the compliment, of course. On a related note, it was good to note how Calcuttans take their history seriously. There are markers like these statues everywhere to remind them of their past glory. Even places like the Indian Museum, and the wonderful exhibits at the Memorial Hall itself were so well done, I was pleased to see the turnout at these places, even on weekdays. Being the former capital, I can see why the subject was given such importance. Honestly, my Lady, I was a wee bit jealous that our city doesn’t have as many large and small spaces to showcase India’s glorious past.”
Lady Flora was gently nodding, waiting for her turn to speak. “How true, Pheroze. I kept thinking of it throughout my trip… that the young generation, especially, were lucky in that city. And I noticed them in good numbers at these places you mentioned. I am not saying that our Bombaywallahs don’t care for their history. But perhaps, it wouldn’t hurt to say it out loud that we could do with more such places to remind the present and coming generations, of the city’s and country’s historic storied past. I was awed by a segment on Bengal’s contribution to the freedom struggle at the Memorial Hall as well as at the Alipore Jail Museum. Imagine a space to celebrate the city’s founding fathers, the state’s great minds and other luminaries across culture, sciences, the arts and other faculties?” she reasoned, suggesting that while the Mumbai Gallery at the city’s largest museum did full justice to the idea, and the Town Hall had a fine assemblage of statues of its founding fathers, there is always scope for more public exhibition venues to hail these greats.
Sir PM was furiously taking notes. “I am going to surely share these observations with my former bosses. At least, I am hopeful they will consider my findings. I did inform them that this was also going to be a study tour; a real one as opposed to some others, who I am told, merely jump on free trips to foreign lands,” he added, cheekily. “While the city has got some things going for itself, I was worried about the state of some of their fine heritage buildings. It’s not only decrepit, I fear it will crumble with the next cyclone from the Bay of Bengal,” Lady Flora rued. “Unlike our plight, those buildings are spared of redevelopment issues; it’s meant for a separate discussion altogether,” she grinned, as both walked towards Apollo Bunder for a whiff of the salty sea spray and inviting Arabian Sea, which they had sorely missed.
mid-day’s Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city’s sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her. She tweets @bombayana
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