Find the flavours of Mumbai at this new restaurant in Chembur

While a new restaurant in Chembur makes a decent attempt to represent the bhelpuri of influences from the city, the flavours and experimentation misses the mark more often than not

"Aye dil hai mushkil jeena yaha, zara bachke zara hatke yehe Mumbai meri jaan." We hum the song in our head, as we alight a train from the Ghatkopar Metro station. We are headed towards Chembur's Via Bombay. This is a city that grew from being a swampland that didn't interest the British East India Company to a bustling port city of the Empire, and eventually India's commercial centre. All of this is on our mind as we check out the menu that will circumnavigate its historic legacy.

We start with a paan pasand (Rs 340), an excellent pour of dark rum, betel leaf, mint, lime, gulkand and soda which is refreshing on the palate without being too sugary. We sip, and soak in its interiors, a green dress circle bar that is lit up and walls done up in frames of old newspaper scans.

From starters, we pick the baida pakoda (Rs 190) a deep-fried snack with a thick coat of gram flour. We wish the batter had been salted and spiced, for we have to resort to the green chutney for flavour. The Bombay duck rawa fry (Rs 275) on the other hand, is shallow fried and coated in semolina. The kick of desi masalas transports us to the streets of Bandra where Koli ladies selling the specialty. The Bhavnagri chillies (rs xx) taste good. It's stuffed with a coconut filling and served with a yummy side of peru dahi, which we feel deserves a special salute.

Baida pakoda

We wash it down with a Bombay gulab (Rs 320). After a fiery dish, the saccharine sweet drink helps, but the Rooh Afza and vodka jugalbandi sends our head into a tizzy. And not in a good way. For mains, we pick the mutton thali (R475), which comes with salad, gajar ka halwa, curd, mutton sukka and curry, daal and chapati. The dish is nowhere near the fare that's whipped up at its humble Maharashtrian counterparts scattered across the city.

(Clockwise from left on Thali) Salad, gajar, dudhi and beetroot halwa, curd, mutton sukka, mutton curry, daal and chapati

One spoonful of the dessert Amar Akbar Anthony (Rs 250), and we wish we had ordered it first. A delicious medley of gajaar, dudhi and beetroot halwa, the sweet treat is laden with ghee; just the way it should be. After all, unless you're calling yourself a health café, desi dishes ought to stick to their original recipes, never mind a dollop or two of extra fat.

Bombay gulaab

And though we loved the halwa, we leave the restaurant wishing the fare was a truer representation of asli Bombaywallah swaad.

AT Via Bombay, Jewel of Chembur, Chembur East 
TIME 12 pm to 3 pm; 7 pm to 11.30 pm
CALL 67099988

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Via Bombay didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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