Canteen confidential

A nondescript haunt in Kalina isn't exactly known for its gourmet meals but is good for a cheap fix on days your cook doesn't show up

What does one mean when they say F&B community? Does it include the vada pav wala at the end of the road, the hawker selling farsan on the train or the aunty who shows up each morning outside the station at 5 am to ensure each one of her time-strapped customers who rely on her affordable South Indian fare, don't skip breakfast? The mind naturally gravitates towards the who's who of the industry — their engaging social media feeds, the Le Cordon Bleu-trained chefs and their ever-changing menus keeping us strapped to our chairs in awe; complacently happy to be eating what we're told to.

But the comfort of eating lies in familiarity and in places that have nurtured a certain kind of culinary heritage, or in corner shops serving no-nonsense food. One such place is Stella's Cuisine, a canteen-like space in Kalina that caters mostly to the working class. But which, over time, has also become a go-to joint for the broke collegian, the mom who wants to take a break from preparing dinner, and the working millennial left in the lurch by an absentee cook.

Chicken biryani. Pics/Pradeep Dhivar

We discovered the haunt during a grocery haul in the neighbourhood and recall being smitten by their chicken potato chop ('60 for two pieces), a flavourful chicken mince enveloped in a mash potato casing and covered in a crispy panko coat. Thereafter, we stopped by many times, indulging in their pocket-friendly snacks like tasty chicken samosas ('50 for a plate of five) and their no-frills baked goods.

In our first day-time stopover at the eatery, we pack half a plate of chicken biryani ('60), chicken cutlet ('40), grilled chicken ('100) and a chicken patty ('20) to go. We begin with a bite of the chicken patties, a goodie we have tried from here before. "It has a pleasant sweetness," our colleague remarks and we can't agree more. We like the desi spicy and sweet filling encased within the flaky filo pastry, as well as the masaledaar mince of the cutlet. We aren't fans of the flour and egg coating, or the overtly oily texture, but could definitely enjoy it with a hot cup of chai all the same.

Grilled chicken

The biryani has a lingering smell of rose water, but lacks the punch of flavour and kick of garam masala inherent in Kolkata-style biryanis. The eatery is helmed by a sweet Bengali lady and perhaps that's why our expectations were misplaced. We move on from the rice dish and tuck into the grilled chicken, served with nothing more than schezwan sauce. This dish is a let-down,

especially since we have tried their roast chicken ('150), which is a hearty portion of a chicken leg, accompanied by fries, grilled veggies and a mushroom sauce that's yummy if not brilliant. We realise that the much-loved haunt is bustling in the evenings because their best items are available post-sundown, a factor we'll bear in mind when we order their soon-to-launch thali meals.

Chicken patty

Be that as it may, we have no regrets, even if the fare didn't blow our minds this particular time. What's the point of being a foodie who doesn't take the risk of a few average meals, right?

At Stella's Cuisine, Kalina Kurla Road, Santacruz East.
Time 12 pm to 3 pm; 5 pm to 11 pm
Call 9702912912

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