Here's how the sneaker culture is evolving in India

Sugandha Tyagi, one of the few prominent women in the Indian sneaker community, receives orders from across the globe. Pic/Nishad Alam

Inder Gill, a graduate of IIT Bombay, was on a vacation in Singapore in 2020 when basketball legend Michael Jordan's documentary, The Last Dance, was released on Netflix. The mini-series touched upon the iconic Air Jordan sneakers that the world thought made Jordan fly from the free-throw line to the hoop - one of the most iconic dunks in basketball history - and his dominance on the court while wearing those.

Like thousands of Indian youth, Gill was hooked, to both Jordan, and Air Jordans. Four years later, he has a sneaker collection worth over Rs 10 lakh. The engineer started investing in them, but not to resell them, as many do. "My passion can be compared to numismatics [collecting coins or banknotes]. I love collecting sneakers; I don't make a living out of it," he says.

Sneakers are not just another pair of sports shoes. They are a trade currency among the youth, and also a form of investment - a pair of the Backwards Swoosh Air Jordan 1 Shattered Backboard sold online for a whopping R81 lakh in 2018. The hefty price tag was due to a rare factory defect that flipped the iconic Nike "swoosh" trademark upside down. Even more accessible pairs, such as the Nike Air Jordan 1 High "Travis Scott", which gets its name from Nike's collaboration with the singer-songwriter and rapper, appreciate significantly in value. They retail for about R15,000 and sell out within minutes, only to be resold for Rs 2.5 lakh to Rs 3.5 lakh, depending on their condition.

Thane-based Amit Pandey follows the analytics of sneakers in the country. He believes the golden time of Indian sneaker scene is in the offing

The owner of Kicks Club, a sneaker store in Worli and South Mumbai's only dedicated sneaker shop, Meet Jain, explains, "The sky-high prices of some models are driven by simple economics. These are released in limited numbers so the demand is far more than the supply; which is why the resale market thrives."

In Sneakerverse, "deadstock" shoes - unworn and in their original packaging - are considered grade-A collectables. A pair preserved in its original box, complete with the tissue wrapping and foam toe fillers, adds significant value, much like a vintage Star Wars LEGO set with all components intact. But even second-hand sneakers can fetch high prices, especially if they were worn by a legendary athlete or musician.

Experts Sunday mid-day spoke to suggest that India's sneaker scene is relatively young compared to the US and UK, where the movement started in the mid-1980s and entered the mainstream by the 1990s. Japan and South Korea have also had a thriving sneaker culture for over two decades. In India, the scene took off around 2015-16 when VegNonVeg, India's first curated multi-brand sneaker store, opened in Bandra. Businessman Anand Ahuja and entrepreneur Abhineet Singh are its soul.

Singer, producer, TV show host, and sneakerhead Mihir Joshi with his collection at his home. Pic/Atul Kamble

Goregaon-based sneakerhead Nikunj Sabharwal says, "The opening of VegNonVeg played a pivotal role in giving structure to India's sneaker scene, especially in Mumbai. But the movement gained momentum during the COVID-19 pandemic, when the resale business really took off as people had more time to read up and research. Around this time, legitimacy tags began to be taken more seriously due to the growing risk of fraud and counterfeit sneakers. Today, apps such as Legit Check allow users to verify the authenticity of the sneakers, charging Rs 700 to Rs 850 (approximately) per pair inspected."

Much before avenues opened up at home, Indian sneakerheads were laced up to the international scene, such as VJ and actor Rannvijay Singha of Roadies fame, who boasts a collection of around 400 sneakers acquired over a decade.

Actor Harsh Varrdhan Kapoor, son of actor Anil Kapoor, also has a robust collection with some pairs valued at a staggering Rs 10 lakh to Rs 12 lakh each. The growing list of sneakerheads including names such as singer and actor Diljit Dosanjh, rappers Raftaar and Badshah, singer Benny Dayal, with collections even going up to crores.

Inder Gill

From 2017 to 2020, Nike reportedly scaled down operations in India due to a shaky distribution model, shutting down nearly 200 outlets nationwide. However, it shifted to a new distributor partner - Footlocker, a US-based multi-brand sneaker retailer, which partnered with Metro Shoes and Nykaa to launch its first store in New Delhi in October this year.

Well-placed sources say the sneaker retailer is set to expand across India soon, with a store in Mumbai soon. This development comes on the heels of other international sneaker retailers entering the Indian market, including New York-based Extra Butter in September 2023 and Singapore's Limited Edition in January 2024. Industry insiders suggest that the presence of these global retailers, coupled with Nike's strategy shift, signals the rapid growth of India's sneaker market.

One may wonder if there is more to sneakers than just the price tag. What else drives the popularity of the movement? Gill, once a typical IITian, immersed in books and academics, explains, "It has noticeably elevated my personality. For instance, if I am wearing sneakers with shades of green, I now match them with my shirt or T-shirt. So, they have literally elevated me from the ground. This holds true in terms of lifestyle as well. Wearing something nice makes you feel good from within, and that boosts your confidence. People notice and appreciate you. I have received appreciation at work. Now, whether it's a casual dinner or a work thing, pairing the right clothes with the right sneakers makes a huge difference."

Sneakers have become a part of Gill's lifestyle and daily routine. To protect them from Mumbai's humidity, he invested in various maintenance products, and even set up a dedicated cabinet to store them.

Some sneaker models are stars of a thriving parallel economy in India. Many sneaker influencers have turned their passion into full-time careers, offering everything from celebrity sneaker reviews to curating the perfect pair for their followers. One of the most prominent names in this community is Thane-based Amit Pandey of SmartKicks, who is on a mission to build the largest sneaker community in the country. Through his YouTube channel and Instagram, he provides insights on rare deals, the latest releases, styling tips, and trend analyses.

"The Indian sneaker community is growing fast," he says, "and the coming four to five years are going to be the golden period. The movement will be big enough to be compared to the international scene, as many global multi-brand retail stores have already opened stores in India, and more are expected. Also, most famous sneakers by brands such as Nike, Reebok, and Adidas are available on retail stores when they launch."

The reasons for this growth, he explains, are many: "Before the COVID-19 pandemic, around 80 per cent of sneaker manufacturing took place in China and Vietnam, with the former dominating as the hub for Western brands such as Asics, Nike, Adidas, Puma, Converse, Reebok, and many more. However, the pandemic caused a shift away from China. India emerged as a promising manufacturing centre, with manufacturing units spread across Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Punjab, and Delhi NCR. Its combination of cheap labour, port connectivity, and government support, such as 100 per cent Foreign Direct Investment in the footwear sector has attracted major players like Adidas to establish manufacturing units," says Pandey.

This, he says, has benefited Indian brands too. Once reliant on China for production due to the high cost of production locally, brands like Comet are now "Made in India" utilising the newly-established factories and skilled labour.

"Homegrown names such as Campus and newer entrants such as Gully Labs are embracing local production, giving a push to local artisans and labour. Some other homegrown names, such as Zeesh, Solethreads and Bacca Bucci, are also doing great. Adding to this momentum is the introduction of an indigenous sizing system, the BHA [named after "Bharat"] scale, like the US, UK and EU sizes, which will appear internationally soon. It underscores the importance of India's footwear market on a global scale," says Pandey.

It turns out that sneakers aren't just a city phenomenon; they are as much in demand in tier-2 and tier-3 cities. Mumbai-based singer, producer, TV show host, and sneakerhead, Mihir Joshi, who hosts Just Talk Sneakers on Zee Café India, explains, "It's not surprising that the sneaker scene is growing across India. Given the country's massive population, even one per cent of people being interested translates to at least 1.5 crore potential buyers. While sneakers might seem like a metropolitan phenomenon, tier-2 and tier-3 cities today are home to people with the spending capacity to collect sneakers - maybe not on a large scale, but certainly at an amateur level."

South Mumbai-based store Kicks Club's owner Jain confirms this. Though his store is based in Worli, around 50 per cent of his online orders come from tier-2 and 3 cities. Kicks Club gets orders from Jammu & Kashmir and Manipur.

One of the most successful brands in non-metropolitan cities is Campus, which has been around since 2005. It offers trendy designs that align with international fashion trends, at an affordable price point, with their flagship product costing less than Rs 3,000. On the other hand, the average price for a Nike, Adidas, or Puma sneaker, is anywhere between Rs 9,000 to Rs 35,000 at retail outlets.

While premium stores like VegNonVeg, SoleSearch, and Kicks Club enjoy backing from prominent names, reports indicate that their primary business still comes from online sales. Pandey, who is into the analytics of sneakers, says, "Unlike traditional retail strategies that prioritise physical stores, sneaker brands today are focusing on creating immersive online experiences. E-commerce platforms like Myntra, Ajio, and Tata Cliq are key channels for both global and Indian brands, supported by sleek websites and user-friendly apps. Brands are leveraging user-generated content from small influencers to engage with audiences."

The community's growth is also being driven by high-profile sneakerheads including rappers, actors, sportspersons, whose collections worth lakhs make headlines.
Joshi explains, "You may not be a sneakerhead yourself, but when you see your favourite cricketer or rapper in them, it sparks interest. I also believe it helps build a saving habit among the youth. For a student to buy a pair of sneakers worth R6,000, they might have to save Rs 1,000 a month for six months. And if they manage to get a rare pair whose value appreciates, they can even sell it for a profit. It becomes a form of currency - a rather harmless one at that."

Amid all the research and chatter about the sneaker community, Sunday mid-day observed that women sneakerheads are still underrepresented in India's entrepreneurial scene. One of the few women sneaker enthusiasts who made waves before the scene picked up is Gurgaon-based Sugandha Tyagi, known as @shoesyourdaddy on Instagram. She has been active in sneaker customisation for a decade and specialises in hand-painting permanent artwork.

While her orders come from around the globe, some of her biggest patrons are Mumbaikars, including prominent names such as journalist Faye D'Souza, film critic Sucharita Tyagi, comedian Karunesh Talwar. "Faye was one of the kindest patrons I have ever had," says Tyagi, adding, "She gave my career a significant push by motivating me. I painted a pair of sneakers for her, and to my surprise, received double the payment I had quoted. She told me I deserved it because the artwork was worth the price," says Tyagi.

Apart from Tyagi, Suhana Sethi stands out as one of the few women sneakerheads whose profile is entirely centred around sneakers. Smartkicks' Pandey acknowledges, "It's true. Sneaker culture is 80-85 per cent men." Pandey adds, "The desi sneaker culture is also predominantly driven by the 20-35 age demographic, with Gen Z at the forefront. Older generations, who often wear "Dad shoes" (a term for basic, thick-soled sports shoes), have traditionally viewed footwear as a purely functional; they are gradually warming up to the style of sneakers. Brands like New Balance are catering to this shift by offering shoes that combine comfort status symbol."

Be it Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars that were released over a century ago in 1917, or the latest Adidas Yeezys, or even homegrown brands, there are takers for all kinds today across demographics - from typical consumers like Gen Z, graffiti artists, and skateboarders, to even the older folks.

80
Percentage of male-dominance over the industry
Source: Industry experts

30-40%
Rise in premium sneaker options on Adidas and Myntra websites in 2024
Source: Myntra Trend Index

Rs 2,364 cr
Revenue sneakers segment in India is forecasted to generate this year
Source: Statista.com