Chef Ritu Dalmia brings new culinary experience to Mumbai

Rosemary Almond Torta

More than two decades ago, chef Ritu Dalmia embarked on a culinary journey opening her first restaurant in the capital. Her passion for Italian cuisine and visionary approach set her apart. She was among the pioneers who imported ingredients directly from Italy, crafting contemporary dishes with authenticity. The restaurant became known for its curated selection of award-winning wines and thoughtfully prepared food. Every ingredient is chosen careful - from freshly-kneaded dough to carefully selected herbs - making each dish - from appetisers to mains and desserts - a true standout.

Mac and cheese

Almost 25 years later, she brings the legend to Mumbai, albeit in a smaller format. Also, this one is not entirely Italian - it offers a menu that balances familiar comfort foods with a few inventive touches, creating a culinary experience that is both comforting and exciting. The open, sunlit space complements this unique menu. On a video call from London, Dalmia shares the philosophy that guides Diva at the Atrium at the Plaza at Jio World Plaza.

"As I grew older, comfort food became important to me. The menu is a mix of Italian, Asian, and desi. The Atrium is a place where people pass by. It's different from where you make a reservation to dine; it's a pitstop for shoppers who want to rest their feet, have coffee or grab a quick bite. A curated small menu that cared for our favourite cuisines at a good price point. Jio World Plaza represents super luxury, and some restaurants offer that experience. We wanted to offer a place that lets you eat affordable meals, where everyone can experience a touch of luxury."

We explored a range of offerings, beginning with tropical berry (Rs 320) and avocado tapioca pearls (Rs 320). Both were refreshing, but not distinctive. The Asian greens and chestnut dimsums (Rs 440), prawn ginger and chive dimsum (Rs 490) and mac and cheese (Rs 490), however, stole the show. Rich, creamy, and perfectly balanced, they delivered comforting indulgence without being too heavy. The pasta was the right texture, and the cheese sauce was velvety and full of flavour.

Next up was spaghetti with meatballs (Rs 340). The sauce was robust and packed with flavour, offering a balance of acidity and richness. Chicken in meatballs can be dry in texture, but these stayed tender and complemented the sauce well. The dainty potato gnocchi, mushrooms of the forest, pecorino (R580), on the other hand, didn't quite hit the mark. The dish felt a bit unbalanced - the mushrooms didn't integrate well with the gnocchi, and the flavours seemed to compete rather than complement each other. It lacked harmony.

Ritu Dalmia

Fortunately, the desserts brought the meal to a satisfying close. The rosemary almond torta (R340) was beautifully moist, with a subtle herby flavours and nuttiness that made it enjoyable. Diva's classic tiramisu (Rs 340) stayed true to its roots - rich, creamy layers that hit all the right notes of coffee and mascarpone. The raspberry-cocoa tart (Rs 340) was decent, though the addition of raspberry jelly felt unnecessary and distracted from the chocolate flavour. We felt Diva at the Atrium offers a dining experience that blends comfort with creativity and delivers standout moments alongside a few that could benefit from refinement and getting over teething troubles.

Dalmia tells us that one of the restrictions she had to work with while creating the menu was that the location constrains the use of fire. "But that didn't mean we just serve heated frozen food - each dish is thought through to work around the limitation," she adds. Will we see a standalone Diva in Mumbai soon? "If you look at our history, we should have been 50 restaurants. I like to take things one step at a time. Diva at the Atrium is a first baby step for us - let's see how Bombay reacts to it, and who knows what comes next," Dalmia signs off.