When fine jewellery steps in with the fashion crowd

In a swirl of jewel-toned hues and the sparkle of gemstones, Raw Mango and Aurus presented a showcase in Ahmedabad last week. Here, tradition met innovation, featuring designs steeped in craft and reimagined for the modern era

The interplay between fashion and jewellery may not always be obvious, but it's crucial. Both rely on precision, structure and shape to adorn the human form, reflecting society's values, desires, and ambitions. As Kunal Shah, co-founder of Aurus fine jewellery label, asks: why does jewellery play a supporting role when it could share the spotlight with fashion?

At the Kanoria Centre for Arts, a cultural landmark founded in 1984 by Urmila Kanoria in Ahmedabad, this question took on new meaning. BV Doshi's modern architecture, with its exposed brick and concrete, provided a minimalist backdrop that contrasted with Raw Mango's jewel-toned ensembles in fuchsia, aubergine, lime and avocado, each infused with the cultural nuances of saree blouses and salwar-kameez. This theme seamlessly extended into the fine jewellery designs by Aurus.

The Raw Mango and Aurus showcase unfolded at the Kanoria Centre for Arts in Ahmedabad, designed by the late BV Doshi. The centre reflects Doshi's talent, forged from a blend of modern designs and vernacular forms

Hosted by the multi-designer boutique Elan last week, the presentation highlighted the synergy between these two design forms. "For me, the evening is a celebration of Ahmedabad - its legacy of art, craft, design and architecture," says designer Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango. "What better place to mark 15 years of Raw Mango? We showcased three distinct collections: Garland, Children of the Night and Agama."

"Aurus and Raw Mango share a commitment to reinterpret tradition, through a distinctly Indian heritage and a sense of whimsy," says Kunal. "Jewellery is one medium through which we express this, while Raw Mango brings in their own context through clothing."

Puja and Kunal Shah of Aurus

Founded in 2013 by Puja Shah in Ahmedabad, Aurus has steadily built a reputation as the go-to name for wedding and festive jewellery. Kunal joined the business in 2018. Recently, the brand's Bungalow 218 headquarters hosted a special visitor: "[Actor] Aamir Khan spent five hours with us, purchasing pieces for his mother's 80th birthday and for his daughter's wedding last year," Kunal shares.

A career in jewellery wasn't always in the cards for the couple. They met in the US, where Kunal was studying engineering and Puja genetics. After completing her course, Puja pursued jewellery design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Her time at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Brooklyn Museum deepened her appreciation for India's rich design legacy, particularly Mughal and East India Company-era pieces.

This exposure, coupled with memories of visiting the bustling bazaars of old Ahmedabad with her paternal grandmother, shaped Puja's design sensibility. She recalls watching skilled karigars craft intricate metallic settings by hand, bringing the colour, fire and vibrancy of gemstones to life - much like an artist working with paint or clay.

Today, she collaborates with a small, skilled network of artisans, carefully considering every step of the process - from stringing and surface ornamentation to stone setting. Techniques such as filigree and granulation are explored, together with unique methods like pirai (stringing) and enamelling. "Families pass down pieces through generations, often quietly and subtly. We aim to reimagine this tradition, making it relevant for today's global audience."

Puja envisions her jewellery - pendants, rings, pearl and diamond chokers, polki necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets - as versatile day-to-night pieces, each with several possible lives.

She believes much has already been accomplished in design, whether in jewellery, textiles, or furniture. Rather than reinventing the wheel, she draws inspiration from the past and reframes it for today's ambitions. "Design is like assembling a jigsaw puzzle," she says. "I love a little irregularity, a break in symmetry, and a mix of innovation with traditional techniques. It's a way to honour the craft and breathe new life into forgotten skills. This is who I am, and it's reflected in what I create."

One such example is the Hasli, a traditional necklace worn by the women of the Banjara community in Gujarat and Rajasthan, who later migrated to Telangana and other parts of India. Puja uses the Hasli to demonstrate how technical nuances in jewellery design create cohesive, chic, and comfortable pieces. "For instance, a piece should fit ergonomically without poking the wearer - a common issue with many designs. When you drape a dupatta or saree, the edges should lay smoothly without snagging or protruding awkwardly."

The next step involves updating the Hasli to suit contemporary tastes, considering modern necklines and fashion. "Our designs have an openness to play with time, looking forward and back," she adds.

Aurus has positioned itself as an e-commerce-first brand, creating jewellery designed to be passed down through generations. The Indian Family Jewels (IFJ) project is a cultural documentation initiative - an open source platform created in collaboration with Border & Fall. It reflects the broader vision of this first-generation jeweller couple to celebrate India's rich craft heritage. "Modern jewellery design has become homogeneous, but our history is full of distinctive styles. While we create jewellery for the modern woman, with IFJ, we hope to inspire pride in our heritage," Kunal explains.