Menswear steals the show at the Golden Globes

Jeremy Strong and Andrew Scott. Pics/Getty Images

If anyone needed further proof that menswear is the next frontier of high fashion, last Sunday's Golden Globes made it undeniable. The message is clear: top fashion houses, traditionally known more for their womenswear, are now flexing their muscles in the men's department. "It's a refreshing start to 2025. These aren't really trends; they're personal statements," says Shahab Durazi, the celebrated couturier often dubbed as the "Armani of India" for his sharp tailoring and fastidious attention to detail. "Men's styles at the Golden Globes had a distinct dandy feel, with impeccable construction on classic staples. A peplum, or tailcoat would've been a great addition, though," adds Durazi.

With this newfound focus, the red carpet has evolved into a style battleground, with guys stepping up their game just like their female co-stars - but taking bigger risks with a mix of enthusiasm, energy and over-the-top flair.

Not just rhetoric, these sartorial statements are manifesting as distinct themes likely filter into the mainstream. "While the prevailing mood is unstudied, there's a counter-trend toward gloss. Sheen is out, making space for luxurious matte fabrics," predicts Durazi.

Durazi's proverbial winner of the night? Jeff Goldblum. The Wicked star wore an Amiri crystal-embellished aqua-blue-green blazer, paired with a bejewelled pin ribbon tie and brooches on both lapels. "I loved the ombré play and the mix of patterns. For me, he stood out in a way that made me keep coming back to the look. What's remarkable is that, as an older actor, he really owned this avant-garde ensemble with such ease and confidence."

Lapels get a glow-up

Before buttons were invented, pins and brooches were essential for fastening fabric - and often served as status symbols. By the late 20th century, however, most men had stopped wearing jewellery.

Adrien Brody in Thom Browne; (right) Sebastian Stan in Prada

Now, with two Best Male Actors in a Film (Drama and Musical or Comedy) - Adrien Brody (The Brutalist) and Sebastian Stan (A Different Man) - both wearing brooches in unexpected ways, the trend is gaining serious star power. Brooches, especially those with more feminine design elements, now carry a transgressive feel as men rediscover a lost fashion. Brody wore a supersized brooch by Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Elsa Jin with his three-piece Thom Browne suit, while Stan opted for Cartier Art Deco white diamond and black enamel brooch with his Prada number. "The brooch is possibly the one piece of jewellery men are comfortable sporting," Durazi shares.

Also Read: Indian men rule the bling: Statement jewellery takes centre stage

Getting creative with the classics

The black tuxedo? Classic, yes. Safe, definitely. But memorable? Not so much. So, how do you stand out quickly in a tux?

Glen Powell in Giorgio Armani; Colin Farrell in Dolce & Gabbana; Andrew Garfield in Gucci

Colin Farrell broke with tradition in a Dolce & Gabbana white tux, accented with bold slabs of black detailing. Andrew Garfield turned it up in a Gucci wool double-breasted olive green tuxedo, featuring a satin black peak lapel that revived the original power move with a V-cut toward the shoulder - designed by Sabato De Sarno.

Shahab Durazi

Glen Powell, a first-time lead actor nominee for Hit Man, wore a sharp black Armani tuxedo with a peak lapel and cummerbund. Both ditched the bowtie, leaving their shirts undone and adding a touch of devil-may-care swagger. "It's a reflection on contemporary masculinity - an exploration of the fine line between control and release - without quite veering into gender fluidity. We saw it in the relaxed, urban tailoring," says Durazi.

A beano for the bowtie

The neck became the focal point for the neo-dandies on the red carpet, with the bow emerging as a quirky standout.

Colman Domingo in Valentino; Timothée Chalamet in Tom Ford; Jesse Plemons in Gucci

"There was a subtle, yet quintessentially masculine, play with bow ties," says Durazi, laughing as he adds, "It feels like a déjà vu." In 2022, the couturier launched his Fine & Dandy collection, loosely inspired by the English dandy, featuring stiffened collars and elaborately tied neckerchiefs and bow ties - almost as a nod to feminist solidarity with pussy-bow neckties. "It's nice to see that the collection still feels fresh and relevant," he says.

Colman Domingo went full maximalist, slipping into a black tuxedo from Valentino with black-and-white bow-wrapped silk tie and cummerbund. "The cummerbund adds value to the waist; it creates a pleasing balance between the waist, legs, jacket, and torso - really completing the tuxedo look," says Durazi. Meanwhile, Jesse Plemons kept it classic, wearing a silk bow tie neatly tucked under his Gucci double-breasted tuxedo collar.

Timothée Chalamet ditched the bow tie for a Bob Dylan-esque thin, polka-dotted blue silk scarf, paired with Haider Ackermann's debut Tom Ford ensemble - a skinny black suit with sequin-speckled details. "The narrow muffler-like scarf gives the classic a casual, deconstructed feel. Sometimes, a simple look can make a statement on its own," adds Durazi.

Pastels for men in January?

Andrew Scott in Tiffany-toned Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Strong in velvet Loro Piana, and Jeff Goldblum in a crystal-dusted Armani suit have confirmed that soft hues aren't just for spring - they can bring personality and attitude to menswear, even in the colder months.

Andrew Scott in Vivienne Westwood; Jeremy Strong in Loro Piana; Jeff Goldblum in Amiri

What does it all mean? "From classic black-and-white to jewel tones like aubergine and burgundy, and now - here come the vibrant, happy pastels. Colour is personal, and it's refreshing to see men stepping out of their comfort zones, especially since conventional dressing has long been the default."

To balance pastel shades, Durazi suggests keeping the silhouette neat - think boxy coats and slim trousers. Modern minimalism with a pop of colour.