16 October,2021 08:08 AM IST | Mumbai | Anindita Paul
(From left) Samirah and Virya slim-fold wallets
For those who eschew leather products on account of concerns about animal cruelty as well as the environmental impact of the animal husbandry industry and tanneries, most vegan leather alternatives, unfortunately, also come up short. To date, most brands use synthetic substitutes made of plastic polymers, whose production and disposal generates carcinogenic by-products. "Just because a material is cruelty-free doesn't mean that it is also environmentally sustainable," points out Arundhati Kumar, founder of Chandivali-based platform Beej that produces handbags, wallets and other accessories made of plant-based leather.
(From left) Ukiyo mini and Ahana
"In 2019, when I decided to take a break from my corporate career and start my own venture, I wanted to do something that focused on environmental sustainability, which is a cause I am passionate about. My family has owned a leather business for more than 50 years. I investigated environment-friendly alternatives to leather and my research revealed several newer plant-based options that are manufactured from cork, pineapple leaves and even cactus. I was excited to bring them to India as there were no options available for consumers here. I wanted to draw on the leather craftsmanship of India [one of the finest globally] and apply it to these plant-based leathers," Kumar explains. Apart from sustainability, she wanted to create products that are appealing to fashion-forward consumers. "There's a common notion about eco-friendly brands having a certain âearthy' aesthetic that we wanted to steer clear of," she says.
Arundhati Kumar at the Beej workshop
Another important consideration was durability, since the longevity of leather makes it more sustainable compared to plastic-based alternatives. The materials used by Kumar's brand are thus handpicked to ensure that they withstand the test of time. As with leather, these products require some maintenance - the brand has designed dust jackets for storage and includes care instructions. The only (relative) downside is the price tag, since the tech for these materials is patented and the leathers, thus, must be imported.
We reviewed the Ukiyo mini made of Pinatex (Rs 8,900), the cork Ahana handbag (Rs 8,200), the Samirah wallet made from Desserto or cactus leather (Rs 3,960) and the cork Virya wallet (Rs 3,750). The tags mention that the cork is sustainably harvested, while the Pinatex is made from discarded pineapple leaves. The sturdy stitching, elegant and minimal design, and the clean finish stood out for us. We found the cork-based alternatives especially light and sturdy.
>> AULIVE uses plant-based, compostable leather made from pineapples and coconuts
>> MALAI manufactures footwear, bags and other accessories with vegan leather made of coconut wastes
