18 November,2024 09:21 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum Pandya
White bean hummus; (right) Nettle and corn soup
Walking from Churchgate to Kala Ghoda can get most of us to break into a sweat. However, when we enter Across, a Himalayan modernist kitchen, it feels as if we're breathing the cool, crisp air of the hills. It is the illusion created by the high-blast AC temperature. We settle into the 40-seater space, done up in light wood, squeaky white walls adorned with paintings by artists from the region.
As we sip on Estate Manager's evening tea (R950), a smoky tea with bourbon and nibble on slice of Kanchan cheese from Kalimpong, chefs Viraf Patel and his wife Prakriti tell us about their journey of discovering Himalayan cuisine; this was initiated by the latter's Nepalese heritage, when they first met 18 years ago. Across, we learn, was named because the idea was to serve borderless cuisine from the Himalayas. They call it necessity-based research of a cuisine that covers Nepal, Bhutan and the Tibetan Plateau, along with hints of Himachal and Arunachal Pradesh. "The need emerged from wanting to eat that food," says Viraf, who runs Firebred Hospitality, a consultancy company. He previously helmed kitchens at Cafe Zoe, Indigo, Salt Water Grill, Salt Water Café and The Tasting Room Mumbai.
"While there is a certain generalised representation of the cuisine, we were looking at regions across the Himalayas, which were not necessarily represented yet in a readily available format. Several flavours and ingredients are shared across the region," Prakriti tells us. Timur is a type of pepper sourced from Sikkim and Nepal, jimbu, a foraged cross between garlic chive and spring onion, is from Nepal, while white beans are sourced from Sollukku, at the base of the Everest. We had our first sting from a nettle bush in Ireland, and the first taste of it in a chutney form in Assam. At Across, nettle, considered as a poor man's cooking ingredient, is paired with corn grits in a nettle and corn soup (Rs 500). Throughout the menu - including this velvety porridge - simple ingredients have been used tactfully with a fine dine representation that is almost a homage to the source. The soup is warm and hearty; the smooth monotony textured with fried corn and wild chives.
Timur potato (Rs 550) are double fried potato wedges, crumbly crisp and indulgent. Flavoured with chilli and timur peppercorn dust, it's a serious âNo one can eat just one' situation. Prakriti informs us that when bread is baked at higher altitudes, there is always the fear if it will proof. Along with yeast, baking soda is added, to be sure. The bread served through courses here has been christened Insecurity bread. We first try the dense and puffy bread with solu white bean hummus (R650) made from beans sourced from Solukhumbu district, Nepal. They are sweeter, and unearth a refreshing taste. We slather it on the bread with confit mushrooms.
A view of the interiors. Pics/Shadab Khan
Next, we dunk it into a prawn and mustang jimbu (Rs 750), a watery stew with chilli, chives and jimbu. While use of chillis is consistent, it craftily lights a delicate, welcome burn. From Nepal, we traverse to Bhutan with a stew, ema datsi (Rs 750), and red rice. This one raises the spice bar with hot chilli peppers but cajoles the palate with fresh Ladakhi churpi cheese. The stew is allowed to cook with the cheese and earns a glutinous silkiness. Hardcore meat lovers will relish pork trotters and ham (R1,150). Cooked in a deep red broth of chillies and coriander seeds, the broth has a collagenous silkiness worthy of its slow-cooked wait. LÃÂkhÃÂmaari, a Nepali sweet prepared from flour, sugar and ghee, with patience and difficulty is folded into shapes. On the dessert menu, it replaces puff pastry base for apple cremeschnitte, slathered with caramel and layers of cream.
Viraf's mastery over contemporary European cuisine adds finesse to dishes without deviating from the soul and spirit that is intrinsic to this vast region's food-scape; a win-win for chef and customer alike.
Across
At 5, Hari Chambers, 58/64 Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Fort.
Time 6 pm onwards (Wednesday to Sunday)
Call 7506128945
