Here's why this new South Indian cafe in Andheri deserves a visit

Sweet benne buns, paneer ghee roast with Kerala parotta, ghee roast dosa and bisibele bhat; (right) karapodi idli fry

Food: Good
Ambiance: Relaxed
Service: Self
Cost: Reasonable
Verdict: 2/4

For this writer, who has spent the college (best) years of their life surviving on hygienic, fast, affordable yet top-class Udipi restaurants of Matunga, the benchmark to judge any new South Indian restaurant is relatively high. Factors such as sugary sambhar or the absence of pure benne or butter on the menu are deal-breakers. So, when we see Idlay Cafe pop up with melting benne on many Instagram reels, it tempts us to take a ride on the Metro to their two outlets that are conveniently located near Chakala and Western Express Highway stations, respectively.

A prominent board, and palm and plantain fronds greet us when we drop by on a Thursday night for an anonymous visit. The rains have taken a breather, and the small al fresco area of their JB Nagar outlet is occupied, so are the tables indoors. The self-service café has a relaxed vibe, and we don't feel claustrophobic despite them serving full capacity. We ask for a takeaway, and wait on one of the high stools for 20 minutes while the order is freshly prepared. They offer options ranging from different kinds of idlis, dosas, thalis, as well as Mangalorean buns, all of which grace the tables that were occupied for dinner time.

The entrance is lined by palm and plantain foliage; (right) The cosy indoor area of the new café. Pics/Dhara Vora Sabhnani

To sample a bit of every section of this vegetarian café, we call for sweet benne buns (R110, all prices inclusive of taxes), ghee roast dosa (Rs 100), bisibele bhat (Rs 130) and paneer ghee roast (Rs 200). Their Kanchipuram idli isn't available the day we visit, instead, we try the karapodi idli fry (Rs 120). Packed well, all the dishes taste fresh and the texture thrives despite the takeaway and the long commute back home.

We start with what turns out to be our favourite of the Udipi largesse dinner - the sweet benne buns. The butter spreads easily over the fluffy, hollow buns with just the right amount of sweet and cumin. They taste well on their own as well as with both the chutneys. We eagerly scoop the paneer ghee roast with the buns, which is served with two Kerala parottas that are wholesome, but a tad thick for our liking. It's hard to stop eating the butter buns to save room for the rest of the meal. karapodi idli fry emerges as our next favourite. It offers a lilting sweetness from onions that is balanced with heat from the chillis. The idli is light as air, and doesn't make us feel overstuffed, despite the Karapodi masala that is generous with oil. The ghee roast dosa is crisp and loaded with ghee, so forget about counting calories. The sambhar doesn't offer much to write about. Satiated, we manage a few spoonfuls of the bisibele bhat, which has the right balance of tamarind and chilli but needs to go easy on the drumstick pieces.

Cheese, butter and mayonnaise may have taken over Mumbai's fast food scene. But Idlay Cafe has a good chance of making a mark in the Western suburbs with its luscious benne, floaty idlis and well-balanced understanding of spices.

Idlay Cafe
AT Shop No. 9, Ashish Apartment, JB Nagar, Andheri East.
TIME 8.30 am to 10.30 pm
CALL 9321248701

4/4 Exceptional, 3/4 Excellent, 2/4 very Good, 1/4 Good, 0/4 Average. Idlay Cafe didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals