11 March,2022 10:25 AM IST | Mumbai | Phorum Pandya
Philly cheese bird eye gyoza
Tsubaki, the latest Japanese and Korean cuisine offering in Worli, makes you want to dress up. Done up in black walls, a play of mirrors and lights and highlighting red and golden embellishments, the space has an inviting ambience. Spread across three storeys, the kitchen and hydroponic garden are on the ground floor, restaurant seating on the first, and the level above features a bar and a space to host private gatherings. We begin at the onyx bar, where we indulge in dark matter (Rs 900), which marries smoky charcoal with floral elderflower in the company of a bubbly champagne. Nihon no natsu (Rs 800) is watermelon juice, elevated with gin and flavoured with the earthy spice of curry leaf. Marshumaro martini (R850), which is next, is just a coffee martini, but made perfectly - coffee and martini get equal screen time on the palate.
At the restaurant, we slide into a cosy corner table so that us girls can gossip. We love the wall art of a geisha smiling down at us. The seating is comfortable for those long dinners and gatherings. The conversation is solely focused on K-dramas and sake, and chef Ganesh Sonari, who has 15 years of experience with Japanese fare, dishes out a Tsubaki salad (Rs 650) that we are in no mood for. But, it sets the tone for the evening: tasteful surprises. Topped with fried leek and garlic, and a good squeeze of yuzu, it wakes up our palate that had slumped a bit with the booze.
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Next up is a tofu kimchi soup (Rs 600), which we initially dismiss within half a spoon. It is too spicy. After a few minutes, we take another spoonful, followed by another. It's hearty, spicy and warm. Made with fermented cabbage and spiced with ginger, chillies and fish oil, the spices boldly win us over. The chef tells us later that they use South Indian pandi chillies sourced locally. We are ready to drown in this hot soup.
The gyozas come well-stuffed. The pillowy pink and white Philly cheese bird eye gyoza (Rs 395) is ordered twice, and the chicken gyoza (Rs 395) is a meaty mouthful. We love the spicy salmon roll (Rs 895) that comes topped with a mango mayonnaise. The prawn tempura maki does a fine job but the avocado mame nori (Rs 825) piques our interest. The coating is made using soy curd, sourced from Japan. This is mainly for vegetarian guests who don't like the taste of nori. Not everyone on our table approves of it, as it has a typical leathery taste.
For the main course, we order curry udon chicken ramen (Rs 600) - which is also available in a vegetarian avatar - and burnt garlic koshikari (Rs 400) rice. The curry is not something we have tried before. It's made with a broth of ginger, garlic, carrots, onions and cabbage, boiled for eight to 10 hours. "It's an in-house recipe that has ingredients like honey and coffee powder," Sonari tells us. Whatever the concoction, we lap it up with the fragrant rice.
We are too full for dessert, but it turns out to be worth the wait. The crème brulee (Rs 520) is spiked with fresh wasabi, which is sweeter and not the pungent version. The chocolate crêpe cake (Rs 600) has over 15 layers and we dig our spoons right in. A subtle hint of yuzu gives the dessert a citrus lift. It's a good place if you wish to spend some, and wine and dine. It is the spicy kimchi craving that will bring us back.
At Tsubaki, Desai Oceanic, Worli, next to Worli village bus depot.
Time 12 pm to 1 am
Call 7304940815