Into the Wild: From ambaadi to arbi, Indian restaurants are uniquely celebrating foraged foods on their menus

Can you imagine enjoying a gendaphool (marigold) sorbet at a restaurant? It may only be a palate cleanser at Palaash, a restaurant situated near the Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary in the heart of the Tipeshwar Forest in Maharashtra, but it is exactly what chef Amninder Sandhu set out to do when she opened the restaurant in October 2023. The flower is only one of other wild and foraged foods that have been entering menus in restaurants like Sandhu's that sourced ambaadi (sorrel) and chinch (tamarind), which are only the tip of the iceberg, or should we say forest?

Armed with her culinary expertise, the Indian chef known for Bawri in Goa's Assagao, wanted to share her deep connection and appreciation for the local community and their traditions with the one-year-old restaurant. It is also what inspired her degustation menu that takes the liberty of showcasing wild and foraged foods in more than one dish. She explains, "My culinary philosophy emphasises hyper-local ingredients, honouring the region's biodiversity while supporting sustainable practices. By sourcing wild foods, we celebrate unique flavours and the invaluable knowledge of local women who understand these ingredients. This approach not only reflects the authentic culinary heritage of Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, and Andhra Pradesh but also fosters a sense of pride and belonging among chefs and diners."

Exploring wild foods and their appearance on menus
Coincidentally, only last week, chef Niyati Rao did something similar when she showcased a pop-up menu at Ekaa in Fort celebrating the culinary legacy of Odisha through a variety of ingredients. The Mumbai-based chef dived into the rich culinary legacy while also collaborating with the royal family of the Belgadia Palace in Odisha's Mayurbhanj. The eight-course meal coupled with four cocktails, together not only celebrated cooking techniques but did that by smoking meat using Sal leaves, and even using Ambulo (elephant apples) among other ingredients, which were foraged on their visit to the eastern state.

Every year, Wild Foods Day is observed on October 28. While tier-1 cities and metros like Mumbai are booming with new restaurants that boast of sourcing ingredients from all over the world, there are quite a few who are also exploring local wild and foraged foods in India's many different regions. These are often appearing as pop-up menus or simply as staples with Sandhu and Rao's menus being among those that champion or are trying to champion this exploration. Sandhu explains, "The menu showcases an array of wild and foraged foods that highlight the richness of our local environment. Diners can enjoy Ambaadi (sorrel), Chinch (tamarind), Charred Ananas (pineapple), and Gendaphool (marigold petals) in a refreshing sorbet. We also utilise wild bamboo for smoking meats and seasonal produce sourced directly from our surroundings." While oranges are more popular in cities, the team uses wild oranges that are abundantly found in Tipai, and they even make a delightful appearance in the amuse-bouche, a delectable bite-sized dish given before a meal.

Interestingly, these ingredients are definitely heard of but using their wild versions automatically mean they are handpicked from the source by locals. The chef further adds, "While locally grown Mahua are featured in our dessert course, they are celebrated for their natural sweetness and unique floral flavour. Additionally, we incorporate tender green leafy vegetables like Harbharyacha paala, Ambadi, Shevla, Kena, and Tandul kundra, alongside wild bamboo and wild turmeric, including their flowers and leaves. Varieties of Colocasia and wild amaranth also find their way into our dishes." The restaurant even makes a flowers tea that uses local flowers or even Nagpuri crabs, which appears as a separate course on the menu. For another main course dish, the Bamboo smoked pork or Bamboo smoked phanas, is served with Indrayani rice and Haldi patta. At Perch, another restaurant at Tipai, the luxury resort near the sanctuary, they even serve Rushichi Bhaji, which features amaranth leaves, sweet potatoes, various gourds, pumpkins, tender peanuts, and plantain.

While Sandhu spends time around the source of these very wild and foraged foods, chef Sarfaraz Ahmed, who is the corporate chef at Passion F&B, which runs Tresind Mumbai, has a very different relationship with the ingredients. He explains, "Being born and brought up in Himachal, I have always been exposed to the abundance of greenery and nature. While going on treks I was often exposed to all kinds of berries, tomatoes, spinach, mushroom, even medicinal herbs and juniper. Hence, whenever possible, I try to include them in the menu to let the diner also experience the abundance nature has to offer." It has inspired him to use mushroom morels and arvi (Colocasia) leaves which are currently on the menu. "As a part of our degustation menu, we have a dish called mushroom & waffle, ghee roast, curry leaf honey. We pair the ghee roast mushrooms with vada waffles, we use morels in the process. The other dish is called Arvi ka Saag which is part of our business lunch experience."

Even chef Sanket Joshi, who is the head chef at Avatara, the vegetarian fine-dining restaurant in Juhu, has taken the liberty of using foraged ingredients on their menu. He explains, "We have used different types of leaves and edible flowers on the menu which complement the food. The menu includes produce like Baby Roselle leaves, cranberry hibiscus leaves and begonia flowers; we also use artichoke and make a savoury version of modak along with a kokum Malvani rassa and use jackfruit in one of the dishes called Coorg spiced jackfruit with idiyappam and Chettinad curry."

Uniqueness of wild and foraged foods
While these are a variety of wild foods, what really makes them unique? Joshi explains, "Wild and foraging foods are unique because they are unexplored ingredients and flavours. Each of these leaves, herbs, berries and fruits which we get to use in the menu are a new experience for the diners, and we get to create more sustainable foods. Also, the level of creativity increases, and the complete flavour profiling and rarity of the foraged foods make it unique.

It is not only the awareness about the ingredients that have always existed but other elements that make them a favourite for Ahmed. He explains, "They are also packed with nutrients and flavours, but their value has diminished over the years. We are now working toward reviving the use of foraged foods and crops and are now going back in history. This in favour is working towards a more sustainable environment and at the same time balancing the ecosystem as well."

Even Sandhu believes their uniqueness is shining bright in a rapidly evolving culinary landscape. "It is because they offer a genuine connection to nature and local ecosystems. Unlike commercial ingredients, these foods are often unique to specific regions, reflecting the local biodiversity and cultural heritage. Their seasonal availability and distinctive flavours add a layer of authenticity and intrigue that can't be replicated with mass-produced items."

It is important to note that the chef, who is known for her association with the Taj Group and more particularly being the orchestrator of Masala Bay, known for its live kitchen, at Taj Land's End, even represented India on Netflix's The Final Table in 2018 cooking on open fire, before appearing as the guest judge on MasterChef India's Season 6. In 2021, she even opened Arth in Mumbai with a no-gas kitchen while celebrating local methods.

Shedding light on the growing trend, she further explains, "This exploration encourages chefs to embrace traditional cooking techniques and slower preparation methods, allowing for a deeper exploration of flavours and textures. This results in dishes that are not only rich in taste but also tell a story about the land and the people who harvest them. As diners increasingly seek unique and meaningful culinary experiences, wild foods and foraged ingredients provide an opportunity to savour something truly special and rooted in the environment." Ahmed believes this has been a significant change because even chefs are more aware about climate change and are doing their part in being sustainable and are working on the concept of farm to plate and fork, which directly highlights the produce.

Sandhu says there is more to the use of wild and foraged foods than just their appearance in the dish. "There has been a growing trend among Indian chefs to embrace wild and foraged foods, driven by a focus on sustainability and a reconnection with local culinary traditions. By sourcing hyper-local ingredients, chefs enhance flavours while supporting local communities and promoting environmental responsibility." This approach, she believes, celebrates the region's biodiversity, utilising traditionally foraged ingredients that offer authenticity and heritage.

She adds, "It provides diners with a unique experience that feels genuine and non-commercial, emphasising detailed flavours and slow-cooked dishes prepared using traditional techniques." Putting this into action, the founding partner - dining experiences at Tipai says they have 80 per cent of their staff from the neighbouring village of Marathwadi, where they are intimately familiar with these local ingredients in their daily lives. "Their families' livelihoods as farmers depend on the demand for these ingredients, allowing us to build a thriving farmers' community that receives fair prices for their produce," she shares.

Wild produce in bottles
Interestingly, wild and foraged foods are not only appearing on restaurant menus but also a part of packaged sauces with Naagin being one of them as they explore the uniqueness of India's chillies. Arjun Rastogi, co-founder of the hot sauce brand, explains, "We make use of the Bhut Jolokia chilli, found in the northeastern states of Assam, Nagaland, and Arunachal Pradesh, to make our signature ‘Smoky Bhoot'. This inspiration stems from our passion for bringing something authentic and distinctly Indian to the table, while also spotlighting the extraordinary potential of these wild and indigenous ingredients that often go unnoticed. It's all about delivering something different and exciting to the modern palate - an experience that isn't easily found in mainstream hot sauces."
It is not only the bhut jolokia, also known as the ghost pepper, and for its fiery heat and smoky undertones, but also other choices that reflect this. "Another key ingredient is the Kanthari chilli used in our ‘Kantha Bomb' hot sauce, a small yet potent pepper from Kerala known for its punchy heat and intense flavour. We also have the ‘Original', which is made with Sankeshwari chilli from Maharashtra, and ‘The 65' made with Byadgi chilli from Karnataka."

While wild foraged foods appear on menu, Rastogi believes there are many other factors for them to be used by food brands. He quotes a 2023 report by Euromonitor, nearly 40 per cent of Indian consumers are seeking out food products that highlight local and natural ingredients. Further explaining, he says, "As people become more health conscious and aware of the benefits of organic and less-processed foods, foraged ingredients have gained appeal due to their authenticity and purity. Wild ingredients offer a way to explore regional flavours that are often overlooked by mainstream food products. This resurgence of indigenous ingredients, like wild chillies, herbs, and spices, allows chefs and brands to create distinctive, culturally rooted dishes and products that stand out in an increasingly competitive market." On a much more personal note, he says the trend is also fuelled by the desire to reconnect with nature and traditional food wisdom, which offers an exciting way to experiment with new flavours while promoting biodiversity and supporting local foragers.

This very exploration is also what makes using wild foods like chillies beyond restaurant kitchens a novel approach. He adds, "A report by Mintel indicates that 56 per cent of global consumers seek food that is natural and minimally processed, with many leaning towards products that promote authenticity and traceable origins. This is where wild ingredients shine, as they are often sourced directly from nature with minimal human intervention, offering a distinct, untamed flavour profile that cannot be replicated in conventional agriculture." This, he feels, is highlighted with Kanthari and Bhut Jolokia variety of chillies. "Their use taps into the growing trend of hyper-localization, where consumers desire bold, indigenous flavours that have a story behind them. Additionally, foraged ingredients are perceived as more sustainable since they often involve less intensive farming practices, resonating with today's environmentally conscious buyers. Thus, wild and foraged ingredients add a premium appeal to hot sauces, making them stand out in an increasingly crowded market by offering a taste experience that's deeply connected to nature and local heritage," he concludes.