Bombay Rewind: In war and peace

An old photo of the memorial. Pics/Dhara Vora Sabhnani

We get curious glances from several men when we walk into the male-only Indian Sailor's Home in Masjid Bunder. Since 1931, this building has been a temporary home for seafarers from across the country. As their office assistant, Prakash Samant, puts it, it's a 'mini India.' The building, however, is not just of interest to sailors. It's steeped in history, and a forgotten reminder of India's role in World War I.

An old photo of the building. Pic courtesy/Rafique Baghdadi

Below the dome is an octagonal room that serves as a World War I memorial. 'Here are recorded in lasting honour and the remembrance the names of the 2223 seamen of the Royal Navy the Royal Indian Marine and the Merchant Navy who fell in the Great War and whose grave is the sea' is inscribed across the room.

Rafique Baghdadi

On the wall, we spot plaques with the names of the dead. These are polished every year before a ceremony on National Maritime Day (April 5). The old flags of the Royal Indian Navy, the merchant navy, the Royal Navy and the Royal Indian Marine are placed in between the plaques. 'Heaven's Light Our Guide' and the five-pointed Star of India insignia used by the Royal Indian Marines can be spotted on the ceiling.

"The city has had many sailor's homes; the popular ones include the Royal Alfred Sailors' Home in Colaba, which is now the State Police Headquarters [writer Joseph Conrad stayed here too] and The Prince of Wales Seaman's Club in Ballard Estate.

the façade; a wood carving panel frames the entrance; the triangular courtyard

In 1920s and '30s, there was a large floating population in the city, and the sailors didn't have a place to stay when they were looking for jobs. Hence, with the help of private donations, this home was built in 1931. They collected about '40,000 under the then chairman of BPT, WH Neilson," says historian Rafique Baghdadi.

Its value back then was about Rs 2,25,000, says the Mazagaon resident. He adds that it was easier to collect money when one built a memorial. A World War II memorial was later added to the room, with a book that lists the names of 6,531 men. The structure is maintained by the Indian Sailor's Home Society and the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. The clock is no longer operational, and illegal shops and slums mar the location. But back in the day, the building could be seen from a distance, Baghdadi tells us, acting as a safe home away from home.

Time: 10 am to 5 pm (weekdays only)
At: Junction of Thana Street and Nandlal Jani Road, Masjid Bunder.

Other relics to view

Erected by civilians, this column at Khareghat Colony reads, "In pious memory of the Zoroastrians who died doing their duty during the Great War of 1914 to 1918." A cenotaph mentions the names of those who lost their lives in World War II, the Sino-Indian border conflict and the Indo-Pak wars (1965,1971)

Pic/Bipin Kokate

At Fort's St Thomas' Cathedral, two gold plaques read "In memory of those members of Bombay volunteer and defence force units who laid down their lives during the Great War" and "In ever grateful memory of the men connected with Bombay who gave their lives in the service of the Empire in the Great War".

Pic/Pradeep Dhivar

Ballard Estate's Port Trust Memorial reads "This memorial commemorates the employees of the Bombay Port Trust who fell during WW1, 1914-1918, and also the Port Trust's contribution to the war effort". 18,70,000 troops and personnel embarked and disembarked at the docks.

Catch up on all the latest Crime, National, International and Hatke news here. Also download the new mid-day Android and iOS apps to get latest updates