‘What will we do in a crisis?’

Bandra’s long-time residents are losing sleep and their cool as their once-peaceful villages turn into a living hell with traffic snarls, noisy drunkards and reckless food delivery riders—all spilling out of the suburb’s popular eateries

Bandra’s quaint villages, with their gorgeous heritage bungalows and peaceful alleyways, are what originally drew so many patrons to the cafés sprouting all over the suburb. In recent years, though, some of the most popular establishments there have cannibalised the neighbourhood that once nurtured them, attracting a daily influx of crowds and cars far beyond what the historic precinct can handle. 

What was once a sleepy, bohemian enclave is now struggling under the weight of its newfound popularity, as long-time residents grapple with traffic congestion, constant noise from honking cars and drunk patrons hollering, as well as incessant conflicts over limited parking space. 

Make-up artist Clint Fernandes clicks pictures of cars parked at No Parking spots. Residents have made it a habit to click pictures of such offences and attempt to upload them on the Mumbai traffic police app, but despite clear violations, the app often rejects the requests, they say. Pics/Anurag Ahire

Malcolm Lopes, 72, a retired Merchant Navy Captain, grew up in an idyllic Bandra in the 1950s and ’60s when peace and quiet reigned the days and nights. Now, angry honks and yelled expletives rent the air as late as 2 am, with bars and cafés drawing drunk patrons at all hours of the day. “On weekends, the crowd starts coming in at 10 pm in their SUVs. Many get drunk and shout at the top of their voices, creating a nuisance late at night,” he says.

Bandra’s East Indian villages, with their narrow alleys and limited infrastructure, were never built for this influx of visitors or their giant SUVs. The proliferation of eateries there has resulted in traffic snarls day in and day out, and local residents now dread this vehicular crush every time they head outside their gates. Valet parking has only complicated matters. Patrons waltz into the cafés after handing over their keys to the eateries’ valet attendants, who then park these cars wherever they can, irrespective of whether it’s a No Parking zone or a single-lane alleyway where even one standing car can block all vehicular movement. 

No parking sign at Subko restaurant at Bandra West

“We got a No Parking notification from the traffic authorities eight years ago. Someone tore it down, and we had to get another one put up. After 9 pm, there are no towing vans, and that’s what the cafés and their valets take advantage of,” Lopes says.

Actor Pooja Bhatt, who has lived in the area since she was seven, has similar grievances. “Most people in my building are senior citizens. What if somebody needs an ambulance? The road is blocked most of the time; what will the residents do in a crisis?” she questions.

Kareena Bulchandani, founder, Mokai and Brian Tellis, Bandra resident

When patrons aren’t flooding Bandra’s streets themselves, there are hundreds of food delivery riders picking up their lunch and coffee orders from these cafés. And, with no space on the roads, these delivery agents are known to ride onto to the pavement instead. “I have seen senior citizens struggling to even go to church in the morning, dodging bikes on the pavements,” says Bhatt, who has switched from her earlier Innova to a Mini Cooper, which is easier to navigate in Bandra’s traffic nightmare. 

“It gets difficult to manoeuvre with cars parked on both sides. The local police have been extremely helpful, but they are human too. The traffic here can get overwhelming,” says the actor who, in the past, has sought help from the Mumbai North Central District Forum, a collective for citizens’ welfare, to address this issue.

(From left) Riccardo Perriera, Clint Fernandes, actress Pooja Bhatt and Malcolm Lopes stand next to a No Parking board, where valets from cafes like Veronica’s and Mokai park their cars, causing inconvenience to Bandra West residents

Much of this chaos stems from a lack of planning and regulation of the restaurants’ parking needs. Anil Kumbhare, Joint Commissioner of Mumbai Traffic Police, says “Valet parking requires dedicated zones to park, and these establishments haven’t sought permission for the same.”

Gone are the days when one could enjoy a quiet, contemplative walk in Bandra’s leafy lanes, laments celebrity make-up artist and long-time resident Clint 
Fernandes. “Haphazard parking and vehicles stopping in the middle of the road [so patrons can enter eateries] cause massive traffic jams. Bandra used to be so beautiful to walk around, but now it’s become a bit scary, especially for senior citizens.”

Mokai has dedicated part of their property as a waiting area, ensuring guests aren’t queuing on the road, even if it means reducing their seating capacity

He feels the government’s zoning laws that restrict restaurants and commercial establishments in residential houses and spaces must be implemented. “In addition, the traffic department needs to conduct frequent checks, like every hour or so, to sort the parking issues out. Also, much stricter laws and heavier fines are required. We need legal parking spaces for vehicle owners; there are so few in the area.”

Since it opened a branch at a bungalow in Ranwar village in March 2020, Subko Coffee Roasters has attracted patrons in hordes to the East Indian hamlet. “From the moment we opened Mary Lodge in Ranwar Village, we’ve always strived to integrate ourselves with our neighbours with a vital principle of coexistence in our DNA and a commitment toward the neighbourhood being that we are in a historic and primarily residential enclave,” the café said in a statement to mid-day, adding that one of the measures taken to ease stress on local residents was to “station a full-time guard dedicated to traffic relief and movement on Chapel Road to prevent traffic jams and guide guests not to park in the lane out of respect to the residents”. The café has also restricted outdoor seating in the afternoons “to avoid noise disturbance to elderly neighbours who requested the same of us”. 

A woman holds up traffic on the road as she poses for a photo outside Veronica’s

Sameer Seth, founder and CEO of Hunger Inc. Hospitality which owns Veronica’s, a deli on Veronica Road, says they have strived to be mindful of the local residents with round-the-clock valet service and a traffic warden to ensure smooth traffic movement. “Additionally, we have set up No Parking zones with cones and signage right outside Veronica’s. We use our strong social media channels to sensitise guests and encourage them to use public transport. We make it a point to communicate regularly with guests through signs, posters, social media and in-cafe interactions reminding them to be mindful—whether it’s parking responsibly or being considerate of our neighbourhood.”

He cautions against solely blaming eateries for the changes in Bandra, and argues that with the suburb growing, there is a larger need for better infrastructure in the suburb, including more parking space. “With the redevelopment of the neighbourhood, taller buildings are replacing old bungalows, and we are seeing an increase in the number of people living in the area. This naturally leads to more traffic. It’s not just about the cafes; as neighbourhoods evolve, it’s crucial for the infrastructure, including roads and traffic management, to keep pace with this change. Additional parking would make a big difference, not just for us but for all of Bandra.”

Sameer Seth, Alan Abraham, Marcellus Baptista and Meher Marfatia

Seth points out that with major roads now undergoing concretisation, more motorists are being diverted to the internal lanes, which further contributes to the congestion. “It’s important to recognise that while businesses contribute to these changes, they are not the sole cause of traffic issues. Development and infrastructure must go hand in hand, and neighbourhoods, authorities, and local businesses must work together to address these challenges. Bandra’s future is promising, and everyone in the neighbourhood needs to work together to make it a thriving locality,” he says, adding that these businesses also bring positives like employment opportunities and economic growth to the neighbourhood. 

The problem is that much of this new economy has left Bandra’s original residents out in the cold. With gentrification of the villages, residents have been priced out of dining out in their own neighbourhood, unable to afford R300 for a cup of coffee that used to once cost just R20 at Irani cafés and old-school bakeries that are disappearing from the enclaves.

Born and raised in Bandra, veteran journalist Marcellus Baptista, 65, says, “Take Veronica’s. It used to be Jude Bakery, the friendly neighbourhood bakery where locals would buy their daily bread [until it shut in 2012]. Locals don’t go there now; they can’t afford the fancy rates for coffee and sandwiches. Young ones come here from far and wide to post pics on social media and be seen at these cafés. They have the money, good for them! But it would be nice to strike a balance between modernisation and heritage. Right now, it seems like parallel worlds; two types of people living side by side. As for me, I bypass these exorbitantly priced cafes and head to the corner to cut my chai at just R5,” says Baptista.

Bandra boy Brian Tellis, founder and group CEO at Fountainhead MKTG, says that changing consumption patterns are a reality that residents have to come to terms with. “But the point I’d like to make is that there needs to be this collective sense of responsibility. I know people who get disturbed at night because of loud music permeating the air. Opening a cafe in a quaint little village is [as good as] encroaching if you haven’t factored in their sensibilities beyond your profit and loss. My empathy lies with the residents of the area,” he emphasises. 

Writer-editor Meher Marfatia, who has a 60-year-connection with the place, no longer recognises it as the Bandra of her childhood. “That Bandra’s socio-cultural fabric has changed is a known fact. While this is expected and accepted, what doesn’t sit well with me is the rapidity with which the nouveau riche culture has spread. A simple suburb—not only throughout its tiny East Indian villages, but all over—is now unrecognisable. This isn’t gentrification; it’s appropriation and commotion. And eateries have a lot to do with it.” 

Many of these eateries thrive on social media marketing, drawing young patrons in hordes, as everyone wants to be spotted at the hottest new haunt that’s trending on Instagram. Bewildered residents watch on daily as youngsters pose outside these eateries, shooting reels on the road while completely oblivious to the traffic they are holding up. 

“Local cafés are filled with folks dressed to the nines for early morning coffee! It has a different vibe from the easy, genuinely free-spirited gullies I grew up around. None of this forced cool. We used to be an organically bohemian Bandra,” Marfatia rues.

Kareena Bulchandani, founder of Mokai, a new café set up in a restored heritage bungalow in Ranwar village, begs to differ. She feels that businesses like theirs can be stewards of Bandra’s rich culture and heritage. “Mokai has retained the beautiful bungalow we are situated in, respecting its architectural integrity and historical significance. Beyond that, we’ve made tangible efforts to enhance the surrounding environment. We took it upon ourselves to clean up the road outside, fixing broken steps in front of where Jesus’ statue is to make the space [outside]  safer and more inviting. Additionally, we’ve focused on cultivating greenery around the space, planting native plants to enrich the area’s natural beauty and support the local ecosystem. By doing so, we hope to create a little oasis that complements Bandra’s character while giving back to the community that has given us so much,” she says.

They have been mindful to minimise the impact on their neighbours, she says. “Our café closes at 11 pm, and we maintain a serene atmosphere by refraining from loud music. We only serve coffees, smoothies, and soft beverages—critical factors in minimising noise pollution. We want to lead by example—ensuring our growth doesn’t come at the cost of the community. Our goal is to protect the things that make Bandra unique: the mix of tradition and modernity, the quiet charm of the lanes, and the vibrancy of its people.”

She recognises, though, that Mokai’s Instagram fame will prompt patrons to take selfies or shoot reels outside the café’s easily recognisable blue and pink walls. They have stationed an attendant outside who ensures patrons don’t obstruct traffic flow in their attempts to capture the café’s artistic facade.
 
Bulchandani admits parking and congestion are a challenge, and they can’t resolve it independently; however, they feel a sense of responsibility to help find solutions. “We’ve dedicated part of our property as a waiting area, ensuring guests aren’t queuing out on the road. Although this meant reducing our seating capacity, we were mindful of our impact on the neighbourhood. We wanted to avoid causing traffic congestion, which could increase honking and noise… We encourage visitors to take cabs, and for those bringing their cars, we offer valet services that meet you at the end of the road for convenience. You can even call ahead to have your vehicle for pick up.”

While developing more parking spaces would be helpful, she feels we must consider the cost carefully. “Would we want to compromise the beauty of these historic streets just to accommodate more cars? It’s a delicate balance between growth and preservation, and we believe that protecting the character of Bandra is equally important as addressing the needs of a growing community.”

In a time when several bungalows in Bandra are crumbling from neglect and a lack of funds, could this be a viable solution to preserve its heritage? 

“In the old days, villages like Ranwar and roads like Chapel Road exuded a distinct old-world charm with quaint cottages and everyone knowing everyone else. Now, many of the cottages are  decrepit; others have been razed to the ground to make way for building blocks that are not pleasant to the eye,” says Baptista. 

Some argue that rather than pulling down Bandra’s heritage bungalows to make space for ugly skyscrapers, converting them into cafés could also be a way to hold on to Bandra’s heritage. Seth from Veronica’s is inclined to agree. “Establishments like ours are critical in preserving and enhancing Bandra’s unique character. When we came across the space once home to the Jude Bakery, one of our key motivations for taking it up was the opportunity to revive and preserve an iconic piece of Bandra’s history. Even though Jude Bakery is no longer around, we aim to continue celebrating its legacy by honouring its baking traditions with our bakes and sandwiches.” 

According to architect Alan Abraham, who developed St Stephen’s Steps into a thriving public space in Bandra West, it is not a heritage vs modernity argument. “New cafes and businesses in heritage areas like Bandra don’t necessarily detract from its cultural value; they can actually draw attention and enhance its visibility. However, the influx of larger developments can strain public infrastructure and create conflicts over parking between long-time residents and new patrons. This is a manageable issue,” he says.

The solution, he says, is effective urban planning, especially to tackle population growth and the resulting pressure on infrastructure. “Instead of viewing it as an obstacle to progress, we should focus on preserving and valuing our cultural heritage while accommodating modern needs. Effective urban planning can balance development with heritage preservation,” he says.

In the face of growing commercialisation, preservation efforts like the beautification and restoration of Ranwar village, led by BJP Mumbai chief Ashish Shelar, aim to highlight the area’s gaothan culture. Architect Samir D’monte has been working with residents to restore the village’s heritage and has participated in meetings with civic officials to preserve the village’s distinct identity.

The project, which has strong support from local residents, also includes a plan to restrict traffic for more pedestrian ease. BMC assistant commissioner Vinayak Vispute believes that restricting traffic in the three-century-old Ranwar village, one of the original hamlets of Bandra, will help preserve the area’s heritage and end traffic woes there. “We have reviewed the area along with residents and have requested the traffic authorities to offer alternate routes to vehicular traffic,” he informed mid-day.

Restricting traffic movement has done wonders for the heritage precinct of Kala Ghoda in Fort. Following successful past trials, starting in September, Kala Ghoda’s five internal streets will now be a pedestrian-only zone during weekends. The area will have new pavements, benches, parking, cobbled pathways, wall paintings, and street artefacts. However, in order to improve access for senior citizens and people with special needs, the BMC is considering introducing RFID tag-based vehicular access. The speed of tagged vehicles will be capped at 20 km per hour to ensure pedestrian safety.

As Bandra continues to evolve, finding a balance between progress and preservation becomes ever more crucial. While the influx of trendy cafes and eateries has injected new life into the neighbourhood, it has also created challenges that threaten its old-world charm and sense of community. The voices of residents, local businesses, and authorities must converge to create sustainable solutions—whether it’s traffic management, parking reform, or noise control—to ensure that Bandra’s unique character endures. Only through collaboration can the neighbourhood retain its vibrancy without compromising the soul that makes it so beloved.

How Khotachi Wadi does it

Designer James Ferreira, a long-time resident of Khotachi Wadi, explains that the community has deliberately tried to preserve the neighbourhood’s unique character by ensuring that no outside establishments are allowed to set up shop within the area. “It’s been a conscious decision by the residents to protect Khotachi Wadi’s legacy and maintain its old-world charm,” he says. “This way, we avoid the kind of commercialisation that has transformed other heritage neighbourhoods.” This approach has helped Khotachi Wadi retain its identity amidst the rapid urbanisation seen elsewhere in the city.

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