Food Review: Why you can visit Bandra’s new vegetarian eatery

EXCLUSIVE Of fragrant frangipani, bougainvillea blooms and strings of fairy lights, Bandra’s new vegetarian eatery is nestled cosily in a garden. And it serves a bowl of corn chivda as nibbles

Building a garden in the city, where you can come, chill, eat clean food and take a nap if you like is an idea only restaurateur Suren Joshi could come up with. “Keep your phones on the side, don’t take pictures and I am happy to give a 15 per cent discount on the bill,” entices Joshi, “it’s my invitation to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with the serenity that Sukoon encapsulates.” He’s talking down to us from a 10 feet tall ladder that he has climbed up to adjust the projector that’s beaming black and white Dev Anand songs on mute on one of the untreated walls. He’s a perfectionist who loves dogs, known to drive around the city in his GMC truck, loading an abandoned tree trunk into it without a second thought to give it a home in this garden.

Jacky’s waffle

“Where’s the green in the city,” he asks rhetorically, “or the peace? We are all moving forward—in haste—towards our end.” He is  as philosophical of this vegetarian garden dining space serving satvik delights in the heart of Bandra that opens today. “I am told not to say this, but it’s a place where my dogs can run around—it’s pet-friendly,” he laughs, cringing at the term ‘Instagramable restaurants’. “This is anything but that,” he adds.

Chickpea halwa Tiramisu

Soft music from yesteryear movies provides a nostalgic soundtrack to the peaceful rustle of Bandra’s bylanes. The natural stone bar and the bare walls are interspersed with potted trees and fresh grass that add a touch of green elegance—the atmosphere is serene and harmonious, a reminder of how the world was meant to be.

Kichu chat

Served in elegant kansa bowl, sourced from a dealer in Zaveri Bazaar, sat corn chivda made in house. Crispy and flaky, it reminded us of simpler days when 4 pm chai parties were unpretentious and came with a side of chivda and farsan. Joshi remembers having it as a kid. “It’s addictive, right?” he asks us with a childlike twinkle in his eyes. Next comes the cassava fries with a side of kimchi mayo. “The kimchi is fermented for a month to bring out that rich, wholesome flavour,” says Chef Tanvi Shah, the creative force shaping Sukoon’s culinary landscape under the guidance of Chef Richard D’souza. “The idea is to keep it clean and gut-friendly, not following a fad but truly honouring ingredients,” says D’souza.

Sabudana thalipeeth

Alongside came a boba sol kadi, a balance of tart and sweet. The boba added a third dimension of texture to the silky smooth coconut drink. The kichu chaat was next: Steamed rice cake, doused in a medley of chutneys, topped with sev—the textures take you by surprise because the palate is expecting a tikki of potatoes or its cousins.

Somewhat similar to it was the water chestnut and edamame chaat salad. This one was crispier and more robust due to the firm ingredients, playfully balancing with the liquid chutneys it was paired with. The jowar bhel with millet pearls, cucumber, tomatoes in date tamarind chutney and avocado cream reminded us of ponk bhel, the fresh winter delight served by vendors on daily down trains from Surat, sourced straight from their farms. The rainbow noodle salad with peanut dressing was a burst of refreshing flavours. D’souza explains, “We wanted to offer clean eating options from international favourites as well to ensure that there is something for everyone on the table.”

Ragi dosa with sambhar cream

The persimmon on a bed of sourdough, cashew cream and drizzled with maple syrup is a dream. The ragi dosa with chutney and a sambhar cream was our favourite. Simple, non-messy and an absolute delight to the tastebuds. We even suggested they bottle the sambhar cream for retail—it is made by reducing the familiar curry to lock in the flavours before blending it with cream. Also A-rate was the sabudana thalipeeth—soft on the inside, crispy on the outside. These sumptuous desi treats were soul-satisfying. The namkeen berry was another memory in a glass: three berries with a dash of kala namak.

All this while, we were washing down the meals with shot glasses of gut shots—the green apple was our favourite. The array of kombucha we tried on the keg was sharp and crisp. For dessert, we had the chunky waffle and I need coffee, a take on classic tiramisu. If we weren’t informed beforehand, we’d never have been able to guess that it had a chickpea halwa filling. Most of Sukoon’s food is an reassuring trip down memory lane and it is riveting to bite into nostalgia.

Richard D’souza, Tanvi Shah and Suren Joshi

Interestingly, Sukoon aspires to redefine dawn in the city, welcoming guests from 6 am, with yoga and meditation sessions in the garden and a healthy, hearty breakfast to start the day. Finally, something for early risers like us. “Or those like me who sometimes go to bed at that hour,” laughs Joshi. 

As we discuss the changing pace of the city’s dining scene, a want for open spaces and the problems that come with it, we look around to say, “Hey, a few butterflies would be lovely here, right?” Next thing we know, Joshi is on his phone, trying to figure out if he can reach out to breeders for this. “That would be a nice touch,” he agrees, and we sign out for the night.

WHERE: Noorie house, 4 Rajan Road, Off Carter Road, Bandra West

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