Three lavani artistes and a Mumbai man whose passion it is to document and spread the performing art form, recommend a tour of the best sangeet baris, and grub stops along the way.
Pushpa Satarkar and doyenne of lavani Shakuntala Nagarkar. Pics courtesy/ Bhushan Korgaonkar
Standing outside the legendary Aryabhushan Theatre in Pune, traditional lavani artiste Payal Shaikh speaks of returning to the dance after a three-year sabbatical. "You can't stay away from it for too long. Although, those were different times, I must admit. People came from far off places, just to appreciate the art and the artiste." Pointing to the theatre where she performs, she says, it is a 100 years old, sharing a street with the famous Dagdusheth Halwai Ganesha temple and the dargahs of Sufi saints. "It's not uncommon to see a Hindu keep roza or a Muslim enter a temple to seek blessings. For them, art is the only religion," says Bhushan Korgaonkar, author of the book Sangeet Bari and co-founder of performance company Kali Billi productions, which brings lavani performances to urban metros.
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Seniors gather at Vele
Korgaonkar is starting the year on an exciting note by organising curated tours that allow you to experience the culture of Maharashtra and Marathwada, including the 16th century dance form that Shaikh performs.
Vele
A forest honey seller in Wai
This small, lazy town on Pune-Satara road is a breath of fresh air for many lavani artistes. "The nearest attractions are Panchgani, Mahabaleshwar and Wai, so you can imagine the hill-station like feel in the air. The Pinjara theatre is a famous landmark. There is a buzz here till 1 am, then things tend to slow down," says Satarkar.
Sanaswadi
Barely 35 km away from Pune, close to Bhima Koregaon, is Sanaswadi. Here, a spot worth visiting is the Jai Ambika Kala Kendra, the largest theatre in the state with as many as 20 parties (troupe of performers). Close by is Ralegaon Siddhi, the sustainable model village where residents use solar power and biogas. Snake through the winding roads, cutting through sugarcane farms and reach Nighoj, a village where a green river flows through a natural artistry of rock ravines, gorges and crevices that form the river bed. A natural wonder worth a watch.
Modnimb
The Vetal mandir
On the Pune-Sholapur highway, close to Pandharpur—where stands the Vitthal Rakhumai mandir—is Modnimb. Sheikh speaks highly of it. "It is the most happening place for lavani. It houses five theatres, including the famous Natarang Kala Kendra, and each has lovely rooms for a baithak. There isn't too long a waiting time for the private audience. And you get the best tea and puri bhaji at the Sagar and Radhika theatre canteens," she adds.
Modnimb has an old raajwada that sits within a town built in stone. There is an unusual temple of Vetal (ghost), which you need to climb to with a rope. Animals are offered as sacrifice to the deity during festivals.
Korgaonkar ranks Natarang Kala Kendra as the number one theatre in Maharashtra. "It is packed with really good artists," he vouches.
Kolhapur
Like most tourists, artiste Pushpa Satarkar loves her pandhra (white) and tambda (red) rassa (curry) and puranpoli from Kolhapur. The Mahalaxmi mandir here is legendary, as is the Panhala fort.
Korgaonkar is fond of picking up Kolhapuri chappals and digging into tikhat missal.
A vendor makes fresh rice bhakris by the streetside
Some of the low-profile joints serve the best dishes, he says, especially in Mangalwar Peth."The food at Padma Guest House is equally good," he suggests.
Lonand and Jejuri
Jaya Lonandkar lives in Lonand. While there is no theatre here, the famous Maskobath Mandir attracts visitors. Dhaweer Nagar is a small colony where the artistes live. Most work across the state but during Navratri, they come home to the devi mandir to dance, with the whole town watching. Many also host private baithaks in their homes for a niche audience, known only to the locals. "The art is nothing like it used to be. The crowds aren't coming in, real talent and hard work isn't appreciated and while it does get disappointing sometimes, it's our love for the dance that keeps us going," says Lonandkar.
Close by is Jejuri, famous for the Khandoba temple. This town also houses a sangeet bari theatre called Pushpraj Jai Malhar, famous for its baithaks. "The audience here is great and come from far off places. They respect and appreciate the artistes," adds Lonandkar.
Get in touch for the Sangeet Bari hour at bhushank23@gmail.com
When in Kolhapur
Don't leave Kolhapur without trying the local dishes the city is famed for. Their chicken or mutton curry, which is runny thin, is called rassa. It's made in a milder white variety and a fiery spicy one, distinguished by colour. Best eaten piping hot with rice.
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