Skin is in: Follow these tips to nail the minimal make-up look

Moving away from a full-coverage beat, softer and more minimal make-up looks that highlight the skin are taking centre stage. Here’s now to nail the aesthetic

Whether as a by-product of elaborate skincare routines becoming increasingly popular, or a broader shift in terms of make-up being used to highlight and accentuate instead of conceal and cover, the growing popularity of skin-focused looks is showing no signs of dimming. From Kiara Advani to Kareena Kapoor Khan to even Disha Patani, Bollywood’s leading ladies have all been sported with make-up that either leaves the skin entirely bare or only adds to its innate luminescence.

Kareena Kapoor Khan and (right) Solanki in casual no-make-up looks

“Undoubtedly, skin is emerging as the hero of the beauty world. With clients — both women and men — focusing on their skin health and following meticulous skincare routines, they’re eager to show off the results [in the form of radiant, glowing skin] instead of covering it all up in make-up,” notes Dr Manisha Kothari, a dermatologist at Kosmoderma Clinics. Dollie Solanki, a beauty content creator, agrees with this observation: “Whether you’re rocking a classic red lip or going for softer kohl-rimmed eyes, the skin has to be hydrated and glowing for a fresh, dewy finish. To achieve that radiant skin look, it’s important to add in a few extra skincare and skin prep steps before make-up application,” she shares.

Subtle but effective

Solanki recommends starting a moisturiser that suits your skin type. “Choose a lightweight foundation with a satin or radiant finish, or skip foundation, entirely opt for a tinted moisturiser or a BB cream. For added radiance, you can mix a little strobe cream or liquid highlighter into your foundation. You can also use an illuminating primer before applying your foundation,” she says.

Dollie Solanki and Manisha Kothari

When it comes to concealers, stick to spot concealing only those areas that need it. A cream or liquid blush and highlighter works better for a ‘lit-from-within’ appearance, instead of powder formulas. Solanki also suggests the ‘blonzing’ technique, which includes mixing blush and bronzer to add definition and colour to your face, without harsh contour lines. “Remember, less is more — apply small quantities of product, gradually building your look up and blending well, so that your make up looks seamless and not cakey,” she warns. Avoid matte and full coverage foundations, and steer clear of ‘baking’ with powder; instead, use subtle touches of powder with a puff or a fluffy brush, only to set the concealer or in areas where the skin tends to get greasy such as the T-zone. Harsh contouring is a strict no-no.

Imperfectly perfect

While no-base make-up may be a no-brainer if your skin is already youthful, radiant and blemish-free, more mature or acne-prone skin may find the trend slightly more daunting. Yet, Solanki affirms that these looks are meant for all ages and all skin types. “The number one issue that people with mature skin have is their make-up creasing, and product settling into fine lines and wrinkles. To avoid this, ensure that you moisturise your skin well before you apply make-up. Lightly dab off any excess moisturiser with a tissue and use a blurring primer before applying your base make-up. Ensure that you set the concealer in with powder — do not bake — before it starts creasing,” she adds. Acne or pigmentation can be spot-corrected, she continues: “My favourite technique is to blend the concealer on the target area with an eyeshadow brush for precise concealing and then set it with powder. In case of discolouration such as redness due to rosacea, dull and sallow skin, or extremely dark circles under the eyes, colour-correct before adding foundation and concealer.”

Ace that base

If you still haven’t found a skincare routine that is simple, effective and gives you the perfect canvas for a no-base make-up look, Dr Kothari offers the following suggestions:

>> Start with an AM and PM routine. For the AM routine, use a gentle cleanser followed by a moisturiser and a sunscreen. For the PM routine, use a cleanser followed by a serum, sealed in with a moisturiser.

>> If you use make-up daily or are exposed to air pollution, include double cleansing in your routine. Double cleansing starts with an oil-based cleanser, which helps to remove the dirt and make-up followed by a water-based cleanser. 

>> Adequate hydration is essential for skin homeostasis to maintain your skin barrier and for tissue elasticity. Hydration is just not external in the form of moisturisers but also internal. Drink two to three litres of water, and explore supplements containing N-acetyl cysteine, vitamin B3, B6, B9, B12 and D3 and Himalayan pink salt.

>> For dry skin, choose a moisturiser containing shea butter, ceramide or glycerine in a cream based or ointment-based formulation. For oily skin, a hyaluronic acid-based oil-free light-weight gel-based moisturiser would be ideal. For combination skin, pick a lightweight gel moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid, glycerine and dimethicone. 

>> Use a retinol-based serum for ageing concerns. If you are starting out with retinol, try the sandwich technique that involves washing your face with gentle cleanser, applying a moisturiser, topping it with a retinol serum, and then finally sealing the serum in with another layer of moisturiser. This helps your skin to adapt to the molecule, thereby avoiding the irritation and breakouts from retinol.

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