Dine like a maharani

From beer mutton curry to Viceroy’s biscuit pudding, when the maharajas of Malwa married Western women, the latter brought with them a culinary repertoire that fused the best of both worlds. An indulgent Christmas spread celebrates these offerings

How did the royal families of Malwa end up using beer to clean their shikaar catch, and eventually, to flavour mutton curry? And who prompted a Goan chef in the reigning Holkar family’s palace to stuff nevries (or neories) — a coconut-jaggery-filled treat from his homeland — with corn and cheese? The White maharanis. The Western women married into these illustrious clans, and sparked off innovative culinary exchanges that also soothed their homesickness.

This Christmas, Mumbai-based chef Anuradha Joshi Medhora — the founder of Charoli Foods that attempts to revive the gastronomic heritage of royal Malwa families — is offering a lavish feast of several such dishes born out of the White maharanis’ kitchens. These women include Shrimant Akhand Saubhagyawati Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar also known as Nancy Ann Miller, the third wife of Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar; Margaret Branyen and Euphemia Fay Watt who were married to Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar, and Sally Holkar, married to Prince Richard Holkar.

Away from their countries, these maharanis would end up missing home and their native fare. Naturally, palace chefs would have to get innovative, because the food would have to be familiar to these maharanis, without being too bland for the maharajas, Medhora points out. “Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar, an American, appointed a palace chef from Goa, who came with influences of Portuguese cuisine. The food that evolved was a departure from your regular royal fare. For instance, there were the Goan nevris, usually with coconut and jaggery; but in Malwa, the chef stuffed it with mushrooms, keema, or corn and cheese,” explains Medhora, whose menu features carrots and nevries.

Anuradha Joshi Medhora

Her limited-edition feast reflects the gastronomic and cultural syncretism that evolved as these maharanis introduced Malwa to Christmas soirées and dinner parties. “Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar, for instance, was famous for her parties and playing the piano. Before her, Christmas wasn’t celebrated in the Lalbagh Palace,” she reveals. 

Also part of the White Maharani’s Christmas feast are liver and potato cutlets, Shikarbagh egg curry served at the hunting lodges, tomato pulav, devil chutney and coconut chicken stew, among other delicacies. “These women introduced new techniques and ingredients, such as beer that would be used to clean the catch during hunting when water wasn’t available, or tomatoes, bread and biscuits. A lot of coconut was used to tone down spice levels, and milder spices were used,” Medhora informs.

To end on a sweet note, there’s Viceroy’s biscuit pudding, a dessert, she adds, the Holkars served the viceroy when he visited them in France. 

Till: December 26, 12 pm to 11 pm
Call: 9833549949 (pre-bookings only) 

"Exciting news! Mid-day is now on WhatsApp Channels Subscribe today by clicking the link and stay updated with the latest news!" Click here!