Storm in a cup

Turkish coffee at Hurrem’s is made with 100 per cent Arabica beans that are ground to a specific size. Pics/Bipin Kokate

This writer's relationship with coffee has largely been functional. It's akin to applying kohl - an act committed to muscle memory. But that's not how the Turks treat their cuppa. It's a coffee to be savoured, shares Abdul Sahid Khan, the Indian head trainer at Italian coffee brand, Lavazza. "The beverage is enjoyed across the Middle East, and parts of Africa, and the custom is to have it after a meal because it aids digestion. It [drinking coffee] is also a communal practice that has historically brought people together, and the traditional café is one where you sit and chat." Interestingly, this is not a drink that you can rush with, even at the preparation stage, because it requires you to set aside at least 10 to 15 minutes for brewing.

Fistik (Ankara) baklava with Turkish coffee at Hurrem's

As a beverage, Turkish coffee carries a special brewing technique, and is one of the oldest coffee making methods still in use, which warrants its inclusion in the UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Despite its growing popularity in the West and its cult status in the Middle East, Turkish coffee can be hard to find in the city, feels Khan. "We Indians don't like our coffee to be overwhelmingly strong. We also prefer to have it with milk and that's evident in the popularity of cappuccinos and lattes." That, however, is slowly changing with a small number of eateries offering Turkish coffee in Mumbai.

Hurrem's, a confectionery and café specialising in handcrafted Turkish baklava, with outposts in BKC and Fort, is one such establishment. According to founder and CEO Ahmed Farid, the idea to introduce Turkish coffee was a no-brainer given its place in Turkish culture. "It's a powerful beverage, which inevitably engages your olfactory sense when you are in its presence." While locals in Turkey are known to typically drink Turkish coffee without sugar, first-timers often prefer to add sugar to make its powerful flavour a bit more palatable. It helps to gently agitate the beverage before every sip to ensure an even mix of flavour. Miniya Turk, a café in Andheri West, too, has introduced the beverage to offer guests "a feel of Turkey". The bitterness of the beans will definitely hit hard, admits Chef Ishijyot Surri, executive chef. To ease the assault, he slightly lightens it with additional hot water. "To give it an Indian taste, we also add a twist by serving Kimiya dates along with the coffee. This helps cut out the bitterness and get a dash of sweetness along with the strong coffee."

Turkish coffee is often served with lokma or lokum (Turkish delight). These delicately chewy treats are infused with the sweet flavour of either rosewater, bergamot or lemon

The art of perfecting Turkish coffee lies in the details, starting with sourcing of the bean to the extraction method. Both, the processes and ingredients used to prepare Turkish coffee, are vastly different from those used for your regular everyday drink, notes Farid. "The origin of the coffee bean determines its taste and aroma. Therefore, an important part of the process is not only to consider the type of bean that will be used in the preparation of the coffee, but also where it is being sourced from and the multiple factors that will influence it," he explains. At Hurrem's, 100 per cent Arabica beans are ground to a specific size to make the coffee. The texture of Turkish ground coffee is finer than other kinds of coffee, informs Surri, which ensures its robust flavour and foam layer. "In the preparation, 1/3rd of the cup is filled with the ground coffee as opposed to other coffee varieties which are blended milk and hot water." The restaurant imports the beans from a local market in Turkey.

Chef Ishijyot Surri

Turkish coffee is usually brewed in a copper, long-handled pot called a cezve or ibrik. The vessel is then filled with water and placed on a stove on low heat to generate foam, an important aspect of the process. It is this step that gives the Turkish coffee its velvety grainy texture. "Once brewed, the coffee is served unfiltered, resulting in a higher caffeine concentration compared to other methods of preparation. The ground coffee sinks to the bottom of the cup, unlike other varieties that most of us are accustomed to, and which are generally filtered," says Farid. While there are different variations of the coffee, Surri says some keep it plain and simple while others add cardamom and cinnamon.

Ahmed Farid

Besides its taste and heritage, another solid reason for its enduring popularity has been the practice of coffee cup reading, a fortune-telling method. "For centuries, the art of reading Turkish coffee grounds has been a tradition in countries that prefer Turkish coffee [and not just Turkey]. When I was working for a bistro in Bahrain, kitty parties would be held and the ladies would frequently get their fortune read, based on the leftover grounds."