Explore the culinary flavours of 'God's own country' at this resto-bar in Lower Parel

Tawa fry

Courtesy our college bestie, we know just one phrase in Malayalam: ‘Enikku vishakkunnu'. This translates to ‘I am hungry' in English. Thankfully, at the newly launched Kerala Quarters, a kitchen and urban quarter bar, there is no chance of going hungry or thirsty.

Dished out by Flavour Pot Foods that runs Taftoon, Cirqa and Oye Kake, this latest offering reimagines a typical Keralite toddy shop in buzzing Lower Parel. The space opens into an al fresco seating that leads into an indoor resto-bar done up in mustard yellow walls, wicker decor and a statement bar. Coasters sport popular lingo in Malayalam, such as Adipoli! which means something fantastic and Chetta! which means older brother.

Chef Sudheesan PG from Kannur makes a tawa fry. Pics/Ashish Raje

Aping a typical quarter system bar, we liked inclusions like achappam (savoury rice and coconut milk crackers, Rs 149), murukku rice fritters, pappadam, tapioca and banana chips, and boiled kadala or black chickpeas. When founder (and food nerd) Pankaj Gupta was introduced to Shobha Pillai Coutinho, a food historian and Kerala culture enthusiast, he roped her into the core team - to perfect cultural references, pronunciations, slang, along with her food expertise. The menu is divided into three parts - arambham (beginning), madhyabhagam (middle) and avasadam (end).

Vazhapoo parippu cutlets

"At Kerala Quarters, I am the fact-checker," she laughs. Pillai spent her childhood holidays in her maternal grandmother's home in Mavelikara, Alleppey district. "I was intrigued by the Kerala kitchens, its chimneys, and cooking matta rice on the adapei (woodfire)," recalls Pillai, who wrote Aaharam-Sadhya: A Perfect Culinary Legacy from God's Own Country, in the lockdown. This recipe book is an introduction to Keralite sadhya, an elaborate buffet eaten on special occasions and community celebrations. "Starting with salt, pickle, avial, sambar and two types of payasams there are 26 to 28 items in total," says Pillai.

Shobha Pillai and Pankaj Gupta

Kannur-based brand chef Sudheesan PG mans the kitchen, and exacts the rustic food approach of the Malabaris (northern), Surianis (central and southern part), as well as the Iyers' traditions in the kitchen. "Kerala cuisine sees five distinct cooking styles - pollichattu (roasted or grilled), ularthiyathu (slow-roast or stir-fried) varuthathu (deep fry), aaviyil vevichadhu (steam), cooking Matta rice in aduppu and varutharacha (roasted and ground) or roasted coconut gravy like the shappile pork curry (Rs 689), pork's shoulder and belly cooked in onion and tomatoes and seasoned with un-pounded spices," Sudheeshan explains.

Malabar monk mule and Attirachi ularthiyathu Ernakulam-style dry roasted mutton

"The north Malabari region sees a tamed spice level, like the fish moilee or the kudampuli. In the centre, the food gets spicier with generous use of black and green pepper and red kandari chillies," Gupta adds. The team has covered regions from Thiruvananthapuram along the southern coast, Thrissur in central Kerala, to Kottayam in the east, and Alleppey in the south west. "In southern Kerala, communities such as the Syrian Christians are known for their rich coconut-based stews, while the central region of Palakkad - geographically in northeastern Kerala - is influenced by Tamil Brahmin cuisine, which predominantly features vegetarian dishes. Meanwhile, the Alleppey and Kottayam regions stand out for their abundant seafood offerings, including prawns and meats like pork," explains Pillai.

Chemmeen koonthal tawa roast and KQ creme caramel

Our culinary trip begins with a humble parippu moringa soup (Rs 459). Drumsticks are simmered in a light lentil stock, warmly opening the taste buds. Vazhapoo parippu cutlets are crunchy discs made from banana flower and masoor gram patties (Rs 389) with a pasty red chilli chutney that starts the ignition for the meal to come.

Attirachi ularthiyathu (Rs 689), an Ernakulam-style dry roasted mutton cooked in onions, coconut and a robust tempering of curry leaves. The meat is tender, the spices bold. The chemmeen koonthal tawa roast (Rs 699) is a toddy shop specialty of prawns and squid rings roasted with a touch of coconut oil. It is an oily balance of spice and tang. We wipe this clean with ney pathiri (Rs 249), a deep fried puri made of rice powder and seasoned with cumin seeds. To pace the spice, we bite into the ney pathiri. Throughout the meal, we sip on two drinks: Nannari soda sarbath (Rs 349) is a refreshing basil seed and lemon juice drink spiked with sarsaparilla syrup.

From the cocktails, we sip Malabar monk mule (Rs 749). Old Monk meets orange zing of Aperol, and is finished with lime and kudampuli tamarind. The vanilla sweetness of the rum meets the bitterness of Aperol and pushes the possibilities of the dark rum. The most beautifully executed dish is koon kizhi (Rs 459). Traditionally, steaming in banana leaves is usually done for fish. Here is a vegetarian execution with mushroom and shallots. A delicate symphony unfolds with the sweetness of the banana leaves that mingles with the gentle spice of coconut gravy. We pair it with idiyappams and egg appams and indulge in the pacha manga curry (Rs 589) that lends a tangy playfulness with red rice.

KQ creme caramel (Rs 449) is a sweet bite of caramel custard with black Kerala jaggery sauce. A filter coffee on the side is a perfect ending. Starting next month, the resto-bar will also host Sunday Sadya brunches.

Kerala Quarters
At Mathuradas Mill Compound, Plot 126, Senapati Bapat Pawar Marg, opposite Zeba, Lower Parel.
Time: 11.30 am to 3.30 pm; 6 pm to 12.30 am (all week)
Call: 9930335941