Smashing start

Imam bayildi

For a city like Mumbai, that almost always manages to put a kibosh on our larger-than-life, spatially-challenged dreams, OPA Kipos makes a mark with its gargantuan footprint. Housed in the same, super high-ceilinged ground floor location in Worli that once contained the Pan Asian restaurant Shiro, this 180-seater modern Greek and Mediterranean cuisine restaurant makes the most of its three-levelled interiors. Intimate private dining spaces and nooks nestled in alcoves and balconies in the semi-open higher two levels give the restaurant some serious Aegean island vibes. With a giant plaster of Paris head of the Greek God Hercules dominating one corner of the main level, juxtaposed with faux pink bougainvillea vines creeping along the rough-hewn white walls and vertiginous, wooden, blue louvered windows, one is instantly teleported to Santorini.

The restaurant's theme and menu itself is one that is transported by its flagship Dubai outpost to others like Bahrain and St Tropez and now Mumbai. Still, chef Rohan D'Souza manages to infuse a bit of his food philosophy. One that meanders from the Greek islands to the Levant, picking up influences en route.

Tuna tartare

Take for instance our table-side prepared hummus (Rs 850) that restaurant manager and Greek expat Petros Mpakalis puts together for us. This could have easily been a run-of-the-mill hummus. Instead, elements like a sprinkling of salty feta cheese and fresh mint leaves tie in with the place's predominantly Greek sensibilities and elevate the simple, appealing Middle Eastern appetiser.

Juicy morsels of lamb kebab (Rs 875) enrobed in phyllo pastry and anointed with a spicy tomato remoulade and garlic yoghurt make for a great pairing with the grilled Cypriot halloumi (Rs 725) drizzled with a sweetish fig and grape dressing. Disappointment rears its ugly head with our first bite of the criminally salty Greek spinach pie (Rs 725) which is what they choose to call the traditional spanakopita here.

Santorini cocktail

High on the aniseed liqueur pastis, the grapefruit-based Santorini cocktail (Rs 950) is a refreshing tipple and is sent with a spritz of pastis dispensed from an antique perfume atomiser. The blackberry, strawberry, OJ and pineapple juice-based Athena (Rs 425) mocktail is another palate pleaser. However, it is the delicately presented (with a gossamer, thin dehydrated peepal leaf garnish) Hermes (R1,150) cocktail that won us over with its simple composition of two ingredients - gin and mogo mogo green tea.

We take a mini break (pun intended!) as Petros and the wait staff put on a round of traditional plate breaking and Greek Zorba dancing. We're told that this will be a twice-daily feature when lockdown restrictions are eased enough to allow for evening dining as well. If you're wondering about its name, "Opa!" is what is cried out when the plates are smashed to ward off bad luck and herald in a new start, while "kipos" means garden in Greek.

Traditional plate breaking and Zorba dancing will be a twice-daily feature once evening dining is permitted

Our black truffle-perfumed tuna tartare (Rs 650) brings our attention right back to the table as we spoon delectable morsels of the well-seasoned, cubed raw fish on to crisp rounds of traditional Greek koulouri bread. Still in a seafood state of mind, we call for the juicy josper grilled salmon (Rs 1,350) served atop a silky avgolemono sauce and saffron aioli that elevates the generous slab of fish. Equally scrumptious is the grilled baby chicken (Rs 1,150) that's dusted with green olive powder and served with a shmear of tzatziki.

Helping us hitch a vicarious ride to Turkey is the roasted aubergine and caramelised onion dish called Imam bayildi (Rs 950). Literally meaning "the Imam fainted", the smoky dish - enhanced with the crunchy texture of pine nuts and cooling yoghurt - is our vegetarian photographer's dream come true.

The interiors of the eatery in Worli make optimum use of levelled seating. Pics/Sameer Markande

Bringing the action once again to our table side is Petros with the OPA baklava sundae (Rs 1,950) that looks like an abstract sculpture with its phyllo ‘nest' containing baklava, pistachio cream and caramel and yoghurt ice cream along with a drizzle of honey. In keeping with the theme of the place, this one too is smashed to smithereens with the tap of a spoon, leaving us to scoop up the yummy shards and gooey goodness onto our plates.

Opens: Today, 12 noon to 4 pm
At: OPA Kipos, Wadia International Centre, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Worli.
Call: 7208881161/62/63