Restaurant review: Fort's new eatery gets our vote

The Pizza Mediterrano

Silver Beach Cafe, Fort
Food: Excellent
Service: Warm
Ambiance: Subtle, cosy

Silver Beach Café the name is a tad misleading as this little eatery, in a quiet lane (the Sterling Cinema gully), doesn't offer you a view of so much as a sliver of a beach. Then again, the ‘silver' could imply the quiet confidence that shines through, sans garishness. Because when it comes to making a statement without screaming, Silver Beach Café definitely knows how to walk that tightrope. It offers a refreshing refuge from the many newly-minted eateries in Mumbai, each trying to win customers over with over-the-top decor, and ridiculous gimmicks.

The Pizza Mediterrano was packed with various, yum flavours

The exteriors come with no neon signs; just a quote painted in silver on clear glass which reads, ‘Age and glasses of wine should never be counted.' A Gothic-inspired lamppost seems to be the only exterior embellishment. Inside, the space appears larger than it is, thanks to floor-to-ceiling clear glass windows. The understated interiors consist of private booth seating - which cuts you off from others - making it ideal for couples keen on privacy. The subdued lighting adds to the mood.

Newspapers seemed to have some influence in its decor!

Besides the booths, there are charming wooden chairs, and quirky sofas that appear as if they've been wrapped in newspaper. Thankfully, it's all cloth with printed upholstery to make it look like a page out of a daily. The eatery also has a higher level with the same decor - the lone addition being a bar. In corners, lie little rustic cabinets that add to the charm.

The Chocolate Addiction bowled us over with its fluffy consistency. Pics/Sameer Markande

We opted for a booth as we sifted through the faux leather-bound menu. Apart from a multiple-page bar menu, the food menu was also extensive. It was divided into salads, starters, thin crust pizzas, fondue, pasta and risotto, main course, and sandwiches.

We opted for the Paprika, Jalapeno and Chili fondue (Rs 590, tax-exclusive). Be warned, this dish is a meal in itself; or a starter large enough to suffice three. It was beautifully plated with an all-white fondue pot over a flame, and a plate divided into four sections: two sections filled with garlic flavoured croutons, one portion of potato wedges, one portion of fresh vegetables dressed in vinegar and flavoured with an array of spices. The cheese was sinfully creamy, with red chilli flakes and sliced jalapeno bits for added bite.

Next, we opted for the Pan Seared Rawas with Arugula, Herbed Potato Cheesecake and Wasabi Cream (Rs 525). Once again the dish came elegantly plated on white, with a separate dish to hold the wasabi cream. The fish was well cooked, mildly spiced, while the creamy sauce was soothing and tangy.

Ready to wrap up our meal, we looked for desserts, but couldn't find them on the menu. The server pointed towards a cosy dessert counter wedged in near the staircase that led to the upper storey. We picked the Chocolate Addiction (Rs 190). A fluffy piece of chocolate cake came doused in chocolate sauce. Yet, it didn't feel like a chocolate overdose.

Despite being stuffed, we wanted to try more, so we packed away a Pizza Mediterrano (Rs 450) which came with a host of roasted balsamic vegetables such as mushroom, corn, olives, and capsicum, melded together with the cheese. The thin crust was crispy and the vegetables were fresh and flavourful. We only wish the restaurant had a carry bag for the large pizza box. But despite the bumpy taxi ride home, the pizza aced our taste-test.

Overall, much like the décor, Silver Beach Café offers food that is subtly spiced yet full of flavour. Less can be more.