Mumbai Food: Appam conundrum in Vile Parle

Beetroot appam with Chettinad

For most residents of Vile Parle East, Rama Krishna (RK) isn't just a popular landmark but also a cauldron of memories. Holding fort near the railway station for close to 50 years and serving south and north Indian cuisines, the vegetarian restaurant has seen families, friends and strangers bond over filter coffee, masala dosas and paneer kadhai. This legacy backs House of Hoppers, a QSR that opened last week on the same stretch. It's helmed by the nephews of the owners of RK, we're told."

The pocket-friendly menu offers Sri Lankan street eats such as hoppers (aka appams) and kottu roti along with Mangalorean buns, mulga idlis (short for milagai podi) and bisibele rice from south India. The tiled flooring aims to recreate the vibe of a sprawling Chettinad home but the tiny space feels cramped with four tables and little breathing space.

Kottu roti

We start with two appam combos - plain with veg stew (Rs 140) and beetroot appam with Chettinad (Rs 125). The plain appam is soft and sufficiently pockmarked. Our Malayali dining companion scrunches his nose at the stew's evident sweetness. The Chettinad-style gravy lacks the punch of freshly ground spices. So, we finish the fluffy beetroot appam with the tasty coconut-chilli sambol.

Having relished mutton kottu roti at another Sri Lankan eatery in Bandra, we hesitantly call for its vegetarian version (Rs 100) served here. Thankfully, it packs enough flavour with its balance of veggies and spices tossed in with shredded parotta.

Relieved to be in safe hands, we order the mulga idli (R60) but realise it's a mistake as the spongy idli comes smeared with coriander paste instead of the traditional crumbly podi. The kolikati bombs (R60) seem to be on the menu to please the millennials. But the deep-fried rice-and-cheese-stuffed balls disappoint with their sticky texture and bland taste. The chewy strands of string hoppers in the sweetened, coconut milk-laced idiyappam and thengai paal (R140) fare no better.

Finally, we seek solace in the light and lacy layers of neer dosa (R75) and grated coconut-jaggery mixture. It gets a thumbs up from our dining companion too.
House of Hoppers surely brings diversity to a neighbourhood dominated by Maharashtrian fare. Now, if only they improve their flavours instead of banking on legacies.

At House of Hoppers, Shop no 2, Tejpal Road, Vile Parle East.
Call 26146666
Time 11 am to 10 pm

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