A kitchen without borders

Bhogal and chef Divesh Ashwani prep for the special dinner. Pics/Suresh Karkera

The kitchen is her playground. She glides around the sprawling set-up inside Magazine Street Kitchen with ease born out of familiarity, and stripped off all paraphernalia - aprons, gloves or a cap - elegant in her flow-ysnakeskin-print dress.

Ravinder Bhogal's foray into cooking began in a manner she calls "unorthodox." "I trained as a journalist. First and foremost, I think of myself as a writer, and cooking was a deep passion. That, combined with destiny brought me here," the popular Indian-origin British chef, award-winning restaurateur and author tells us ahead of a special dinner she will be serving at the Byculla venue tonight. But her love for food stems from a deeper place.

It began rather unpleasantly with a revolting five-year-old Bhogal being dragged into the kitchen by her mother, "a petite and beautiful woman who was stern and not the kind of person who taught you lovingly." At the time, Bhogal, who was a tomboy, would have rather climbed trees or ridden her tricycle, but was instead handed a rolling pin and asked to make round rotis. "I found it very boring," she says, adding that her view eventually changed when her grandfather bought her a little aluminium stove.

"It had such a lasting impact on how and why I cook. I would serve him burnt chapatis and terrible things that he ate with such love, praising me and often, putting cents in my hands to go and buy toffees. He would say to my mother, 'She's so good. Why can't you cook like her?' It was then that I realised that the currency of love can be exchanged for food," she recalls, elaborating on her tendency of approaching food with a motherly instinct that is driven by the need to nourish, not perform. Thereafter, the chef has donned many hats, from being called the new-age Fanny Cradock by acclaimed chef Gordon Ramsay, hosting a television show, supper clubs and pop-ups, to starting her own restaurant Jikoni in Marylebone in 2016, which opened to rave reviews. The accolades keep coming.

Bhogal takes a whiff of a Moroccan spice

But Bhogal's truest virtue lies not only in journeying through an unpredictable road, speckled with hurdles, scepticism and serendipity in equal measure, but in her ability to cook food that defies the confines of cuisines and territories. The result is a spread that pays homage to many heritages - East African (she lived in Kenya till the age of seven before moving to London), North Indian (since she hails from Punjab) and British. Growing up as an immigrant in a country like Britain meant that Bhogal lived in migrant-dominant neighbourhoods. She would often shop in Chinese markets or Polish shops.

"You are exposed to this wealth of ingredients, influences and culinary traditions that you somehow adopt and mix together. That's what immigrant food is: it's about people who have the ache and longing for what they've left behind, but also the wonder for their new landscape. It is when you reconcile these two things that you actually create a completely new cuisine," she elaborates, as she calls for some za'atar, delicately rolling beetroot and goat cheese croquetas inside a container full of the Middle Eastern herb. The fried ball explodes into a flavoursome and gooey goodness on our palate, leaving us pining for more.

Carrots, cashew nut pesto, goats curd, savoury granola

This synergy of culinary traditions shines through in the potato and paneer pierogi. A Polish ravioli comprising a hearty filling of paneer, drizzled with a hot yoghurt sauce and a piquant pul biber (an export from the Turkish spice shelf) butter and hazelnuts. The plated carrots, too, adhere to the sensibilities of no one cuisine in particular, and is instead a heartfelt celebration of the simple vegetable's many avatars - baby, yellow and purple - sitting on a bed of cashew nut pesto, with a singing freshness from the basil and carrot heads, a hint of acidity from the goat's curd and crunch from savoury granola.

Potato and paneer pierogi

Bhogal's food is worthy of the accolades because it's ingenious and not accidentally; it conveys a purposefulness and a conscientious effort towards defying these boundaries. As she says, "You often think of immigrants as the other, but as soon as you're sitting with a bowl of hummus and a puff of pita bread, that changes. If you can understand someone's food, you can understand their culture and that's where the beauty of food lies. It translates very easily into people's lives and turns strangers into friends."

Beetroot and goat cheese croquetas

AT Magazine Street Kitchen, Gupta Mills Estate, Byculla East.
ON April 27, 8 pm onwards
CALL 23726708
COST Rs 4,000

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