13 September,2024 12:07 PM IST | Mumbai | Nascimento Pinto
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Amid Ganeshotsav and Bandra Fair celebrations, Mumbaikars, who have their origins in Kerala, are getting ready to celebrate Onam on September 15. While visiting the temple and creating the pookalam, the rangoli made from flowers, is an important tradition, it culminates with the Onam Sadhya, or the Onasadhya, which is known to have over 21 dishes, that are served and eaten on a banana leaf. Most people may be intimidated by the feast but that doesn't mean they cannot enjoy the dishes by themselves, according to chefs in Mumbai.
With a wide variety of dishes that include sweet, sour and spicy flavours - all of which come together to produce a delicious amalgamation of flavours, the Onam Sadhya is a feast that is hard to ignore, even if you are not from Kerala. It is not only defined by its flavours but also its colours that will leave you wanting more, as experienced by this writer on many occasions, while savouring the Sadhya, not only in restaurants but also homes of friends.
The Sadhya popularly has many dishes like raw banana chips, pickles, sambar and olan. mid-day.com spoke to Mumbai chefs, who share recipes for other dishes that are traditional beyond the common specials and will even elevate your experience to make it like one that is traditionally had by people from Kerala. They not only share recipes for Avial but also for Thakkali Kootu, Kootukari, Pineapple Pulissery, and a variation of the payasam made with jowar. The best part about the dishes is that they can definitely be eaten as a feast but more importantly separately with rice or rotis and that is what makes them versatile.
Also Read: Onam 2024: How Mumbai's Malayalis celebrate the Onasadhya in different ways
Avial
Easily one of the favourites on the Onam Sadhya, chef Prakash Mohanarangan at ITC Grand Central in Parel, says you should make Avial, even if you aren't able to make the whole feast of more than 21 dishes like a traditional Kerala household. He shares, "Avial is a celebration of the harvest and a homage to the vivid flavours of Kerala."
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Ingredients:
Raw banana (cut into long pieces) 1 cup
Elephant yam (cut into long pieces) 1 cup
Carrots (cut into long pieces) 1 cup
Drumsticks (cut into 2-inch pieces) 1 cup
Cucumber or ash gourd (cut into pieces) 1 cup
Snake gourd (cut into pieces) 1 cup
Green beans (cut into pieces) 1/2 cup
Green chilies 2-3 nos
Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
Chilli powder 1/4 tsp
Grated coconut 1 cup
Cumin seeds 1 tsp
Small shallots 2-3 nos
Curd 1/2 cup
Coconut oil 1 tbsp
Curry leaves 1 sprig
Salt to taste
Method:
1. Wash and peel the vegetables. Cut them into uniform, long pieces. In a large pot, add the vegetables (except cucumber) along with turmeric powder, salt, and enough water to cook them. Cook the vegetables over medium heat until they are just tender but not mushy.
2. In a blender, grind the grated coconut, cumin seeds, and shallots (if using) into a coarse paste. Add a little water if needed.
3. Add the cucumber or ash gourd pieces to the cooked vegetables and allow them to soften. Add the coconut paste and green chilies to the vegetables. Stir gently so that the vegetables don't get mashed. Simmer for 2-3 minutes until the raw smell of the coconut paste disappears. Turn off the heat and add the curd. Mix well but gently to combine.
4. Drizzle the coconut oil over the avial and add the curry leaves. Serve hot with steamed rice as part of an Onam Sadhya.
Pineapple Pulissery
While an Avial is a classic, chef Rohan Malwankar, executive chef at Navi Mumbai Marriott Hotel, says you can also make Pineapple Pulissery, which is a sweet-sour yogurt-based curry made with ripe pineapple. Dwelling on how pineapples came to India and their role in dishes, he says, "In Kerala, pineapple is used in both savoury and sweet dishes, including traditional Sadhya (feast) preparations like Pineapple Pachadi and Pineapple Pulissery."
Ingredients:
Ripe pineapple 1 cup (chopped)
Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
Salt to taste
Green chillies, slit 2-3 nos
Yogurt, well-beaten 1 cup
Curry leaves a few
For the coconut paste:
Grated coconut 1/2 cup
Cumin seeds 1/2 tsp
Green chilies 2 nos
Water as needed
For tempering:
Coconut oil 1 tbsp
Mustard seeds 1 tsp
Fenugreek seeds 1/4 tsp
Dried red chilies 2 nos
Curry leaves a few
Method:
1. Cook the pineapple: In a pan, add the chopped pineapple, turmeric powder, salt, green chillies, and enough water to cook the pineapple. Let it cook until the pineapple becomes soft.
2. Prepare coconut paste: Grind the grated coconut, cumin seeds, and green chillies into a fine paste by adding a little water.
3. Add the coconut paste: Once the pineapple is soft, add the ground coconut paste to the pan. Cook for a few more minutes until the raw smell of the coconut disappears.
4. Add beaten yogurt: Reduce the heat and slowly add the beaten yoghurt to the curry. Stir continuously to prevent the yoghurt from curdling. Heat it for a couple of minutes but do not bring it to a boil.
5. Tempering: In a small pan, heat the coconut oil. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter. Add fenugreek seeds, dried red chillies, and curry leaves. Pour this tempering over the prepared pineapple pulissery.
6. Serve: Serve the pineapple pulissery with hot rice and enjoy.
Thakkali Kootu
If you are planning a feast for yourself, then chef Anil Rabada, who is the senior sous chef, JW Café, JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar, says you can also make the Thakkali Kootu, but it is also one dish you can enjoy on your own. He explains, "It is a true gem of simplicity and flavour that showcases traditional ingredients in a modern way. The blend of green tomatoes, moong dal and freshly ground coconut creates a rich, comforting stew with a unique, aromatic twist. The seasoned ghee and spices offer a perfect note to end this delicious South Indian delicacy."
Ingredients:
Tomatoes (Green unripened tomatoes) 8-10 nos
Moong dal 60 gm
Coriander leaves 15 gm
Turmeric 5 gm
Salt to taste
Oil 30 ml
For grinding:
Grated coconut 45 gm
Green chilies 3 nos
For seasoning:
Ghee 15 gm
Mustard seeds 5 gm
Split Urid dal 15 gm
Cumin Seeds 5 gm
Curry leaves a few
Hing 2 gm
Method:
1. Pressure cook the moong dal and mash it nicely and keep it aside.
2. Wash the tomatoes and cut into medium-sized cubes.
3. Add grated coconut and green chilies to the mixer.
4. Grind the coconut and green chilies to a nice paste and keep this ready
5. Heat oil in a pan, add chopped tomatoes and add 1/4 teaspoon of salt and mix well, and sauté them for at least 5 minutes in medium flame.
6. Now add mashed dal, ground paste and salt and mix well.
7. Remove the tomato stew from the flame, add 3/4 cup of water and pressure cook it. Allow for at least two whistles as tomatoes are hard and need more time to cook.
8. Meanwhile, heat another pan and add ghee and when the ghee is hot, add mustard seeds.
9. When the mustard seeds start to sputter, add cumin seeds, split urid dal and sauté it till the dal turns golden brown colour.
10. Finally, add hing and curry leaves and remove from flame
11. After the pressure is released from the cooker completely, take the cooked tomatillo stew and check if the tomatoes are cooked completely
12. Add the seasoned ingredients to the stew and mix well
13. Serve the Thakkali Kootu.
Kootukari
The number of dishes on the Onam Sadhya gives you the liberty to add more dishes to the feast, and at the same time, those that can be eaten on their own with either rice or rotis. Keeping with the festive spirit, chef Shrikant Jogdankar, Chef de cuisine, Sofitel Mumbai BKC, recommends making Kootukari, a traditional dish, that is simply delicious. He explains, "Kootukari is a traditional Onam Sadhya preparation that showcases the harmony of flavours and textures that stands out for its medley of vegetables. Kootukari celebrates the bounty of Kerala's vegetable combination in a single dish with the subtle coconut flavour adding a rich, creamy element without overpowering the other ingredients. The stew's thick, saucy texture makes it a comforting and satisfying addition to the Onam Sadhya spread." Overall, he believes that the Kootukari is a masterclass in balance and restraint, allowing each vegetable to shine while creating a cohesive and delicious whole.
Ingredients:
Pumpkin 150 gm
Yam 150 gm
Raw plantain 150 gm (can add a variety of vegetables according to your choice like carrot, potato)
Brown chickpeas/Kadala 100 gm
Turmeric powder 5 gm
Red chilli powder 5 gm
Salt to taste
For grinding:
Grated coconut 150 gm
Cumin seeds 5 gm
For seasoning:
Grated coconut 100 gm
Mustard seeds 3 gm
Dry red chillies 2 - 3 nos
Curry leaves 2 sprigs
Cooking oil 1 tbsp
Method:
1. Soak black chickpeas overnight and pressure cook adding enough water and salt for around 5
whistles.
2. Grind together grated coconut and cumin to a smooth paste with a little water and keep it aside.
3. Cook the vegetables, raw banana, ash gourd and yam cubes along with 1 cup of water until the vegetables are almost cooked and 95 % of the water is evaporated.
4. Now add salt, turmeric powder, red chilli powder.
5. Add the ground coconut mixture to the cooked vegetables and mix well.
6. Adjust the salt and cook for a few minutes or until the raw taste of coconut is gone.
7. Add the cooked chickpeas to the above mixture. Mix well and cook for couple of minutes. Remove from the fire and set it aside.
8. In small frying, pan add oil and splutter mustard seeds, dry red chillies, curry leaves and grated coconut and roast it until golden brown colour.
9. Add this over the kootakari and mix well. Optional - sprinkle 1 tsp of fresh coconut oil on the top, cover it and allow it to stand for 10-20 minutes before serving. (Note: This will help the dish to absorb the flavor of curry leaves and coconut oil.)
10. Serve with rice and enjoy.
Jowar payasam
An Onam Sadhya is incomplete without some payasam and chef Varun Inamdar, who is instrumental in putting together the recipes for the Godrej Vikhroli Cucina Millets Cookbook, has also included a variation of it called Jowar Payasam. The interesting aspect of this dish is that even though the traditional dish is not made with jowar, this is a delicious variation for all those who want to experiment with their sweet dish this time around, according to him.
Ingredients:
Sorghum 1/2 cup
Jersey milk 1 1/4 cup
Cardamom powder 1/4 tbsp
Jaggery 3/4 cup
Jersey ghee 1 tbsp
Cashew nuts 8-10 nos
A generous pinch of saffron strands
Method:
1. Wash sorghum 2- 3 times and soak overnight in 1 cup water.
2. Pressure cook in 2 cups of water till well done. Even if it gets slightly overcooked, it is fine and might be better.
3. Add Godrej Jersey ghee to a deep pot. Once it is melted, add cashew nuts and fry until golden and set aside.
4. Add the cooked sorghum, Godrej Jersey milk and jaggery. Cook until the mixture thickens, stirring intermittently.
5. Add golden fried cashews, saffron strands, cardamom powder and stir well.
6. Serve warm.