Historic Colaba bungalow opens its doors to Chef Vicky Ratnani's glo-cal menu

Karan Johar's diner - Neuma, recently transpired into a hotbed of transcontinental dishes. Housed in Garden Chalet, a 19th-century colonial bungalow in Colaba, the bistro has joined hands with the culinary maestro Chef Vicky Ratnani. In a week-long cameo, the Sindhi chef is set to present his contemporary menu with the ‘Bites Beyond Borders' Pop-Up at the restaurant.

Vicky, a prominent culinary figure in the Indian gastronomy scene, is renowned for his innovative approach to cooking. An intrepid traveller, he has a knack for crafting new-age food stories in an old-school style. Notably, he is the brother of the acclaimed celebrity photographer, Dabboo Ratnani, and the family's creative genes extend beyond borders.

His culinary odyssey commenced shortly after he completed his studies at the Institute of Hotel Management, Mumbai, in 1992. Today, he is a household name and his distinctive cooking style continues to inspire food enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. In an exclusive interaction with this writer, chef Vicky takes us through his glocal (global-local) culinary mashups to entice Mumbai's palette.

Chilled Asparagus Soup and Saffron Tres Leches

Global-inspired local cuisine
‘Bites Beyond Borders,' as the name suggests, represents food without any boundaries. This is not a themed menu bound by one kind of cuisine or one style of cooking. "Rather, it's an open forum where I've featured different dishes and flavours from all across the world. With techniques like smoking, pickling, compressing, fermentation and infusing plenty of Indian flavours - this menu is a gourmet explosion.'

The ability to cook a culinary storm like this is what Vicky finds truly liberating. Complimenting his style is Neuma's unique setting that effortlessly switches from a gothic English villa to a tropical island. "At any given time - this eatery can don the look of a fine-dine French restaurant to a Californian eatery, or even a brewery. Parallelly, that's how versatile my menu is with an eclectic blend of ingredients and methods."

What are the global elements on the menu, we ask? He responds, "Well, we have infused flavours all the way from Jamaica and Southeast Asia. To amplify them, we have resorted to techniques like smoking the pork belly and the chicken over mango wood and charcoal. Mango wood lends a fruity aroma, imparting a tropical note to the meat that sets it apart from traditional wood types."

Furthermore, the dual use of both wood and charcoal allows for a balanced combination of smokiness and consistent heat, creating a harmonious blend of textures. The use of mango wood and charcoal not only contributes to the flavour but also presents an eco-conscious approach to cooking, as it makes use of sustainable resources.

Compressed Melon & Charred Pineapple Chaat with Haus Avocado

Speaking of techniques, he regales us over another culinary method he is fond of. "I like to compress watermelons! One can do it by marinating melon balls and then compressing them in vacuum bags. This process concentrates the flavours into bite-sized pieces that are succinct in flavours."

The chef's team has also incorporated Ancho Poblano Chilies which are mega chilies dipped in tomato sauce. While it's a Mexican cuisine, the chef's team has introduced a unique twist by incorporating Indian masalas into the fillings. Additionally, the menu features the vibrant flavours of Kerala, brought to life with tropical ingredients such as Sichuan peppercorns, pineapple juice, lime leaves and lemongrass.

Of Italian Gnocchi, Sindhi Lamb Shanks and Indian chaat
Chef Vicky takes a pioneering approach to Gnocchi - the traditional Italian dumplings made with potatoes in tomato puree. "So gnocchi is my version of the Indian aloo tamatar. In the wake of the Covid-19 lockdown, this cross-cultural concept came to life while toying with everyday ingredients to craft elevated, restaurant-style feasts."

With potatoes being the central item, this dish requires minimal ingredients. An Italian Gnocchi essentially has a soft, pillowy texture with an earthy flavour of sauces and ingredients. "But the way I serve it is very similar to ghar ka aloo tamatar by soaking potatoes in a creamy blend of tomato and basil sauce. And that's how it becomes a fusion affair."

Next on the menu is lamb shanks which is a typical Sindhi mutton curry. "We love to it eat on Sundays. It's a typical home-made recipe but for this pop-up, we have innovated with a New Zealand lamb shank. The spices used here are typically Sindhi, cooking with the slow braising method in an oven to give it a brown texture."

Following in the offerings was the Compressed Melon and Charred Pineapple Chaat with Haus Avocado. True to its name, it was a flavour explosion waiting to happen. Chef Vicky paid homage to India's famous chaat by crafting this dish with a guacamole base infused with a blend of Indian flavours, including chilies, chaat masala, black salt and amchoor. The base was topped with compressed melon along with pineapple, diverse chutneys, Karela and banana chips from Italy which enticed the taste buds with each bite.

Lobster in Cafreal Butter and Grape & Celery Gaspacho

Tracing Sindhi culinary secrets
Imagine the art of slow cooking, where you neatly sear the meat in a scorching hot pan. Next, you infuse it with an array of aromatic spices, and then let it simmer in a sumptuous, slow-cooked broth. "That's how the magic happens - and that is how I prepare my Sindhi mutton curry. I take the time to craft a rich stock, and that's the secret," he reveals.

"In fact, I first prepare the curry without the meat, preserving all its flavours. I pour it into a bowl and freeze it in an ice tray. Later, when I'm ready to serve, I bring that savoury stock back into play, and this time, I add the meat. So, in essence, my curry is a symphony that's performed twice, ensuring an exquisite depth of flavours."

Proudly embracing his Sindhi heritage as a badge of honour, he believes in the power of conversations. "Sindhi cuisine has always been there but people don't know much about it. There is a growing community of home cooks who are proudly shining a light on this remarkable heritage. Every opportunity I get, I make it a point to showcase the rich tapestry of Sindhi food, preserving and sharing its unique flavours with the world."

Through his endeavours, he has witnessed a transformation where people are not only rediscovering Sindhi cuisine roots but are also embracing the flavours from the north. "This journey is a continuous and ever-evolving process, one that brings people closer to our heritage."

Chef recommends
"There are quite a few highlight dishes on this menu but I like the Gnocchi aloo tamatar for sure because it's something you will not find in any other restaurant. Next would be the Asian Sea Bass in the coconut and pineapple emulsion as it happens to be one of my favourite dishes."

Top 2 Sindhi haunts in Mumbai

1. Jhama Sweets, Chembur - Serves the best gulab jamuns and sindhi barfi
2. Gopal's mutton and chicken, Chembur - Sindhi dhaba-style food