16 August,2023 10:20 AM IST | Mumbai | Nascimento Pinto
Eraichi Chettinad Pepper Fry is made from succulent lamb chunks infused with crushed black peppercorns, coconut essence, and curry leaf, and served alongside Malabar parotha. Photo Courtesy: BrewDog
BrewDog, the popular eatery in Bandra, invites food lovers to indulge in a gastronomic adventure with their unique 'Flavours of India' menu this August. Curated by Chef Roshan Seth, the menu is a tribute to India's rich culinary heritage, highlighting lesser-known regional and tribal delicacies, as well as time-honoured classics. Chef Seth's commitment to showcasing India's diverse culinary tapestry is evident as he introduces guests to hidden gems of Indian cuisine. "When we talk about Indian food, we always talk about the kormas, butter chickens and dal makhanis but there are so many hidden gems." Although the menu explores various cuisines, Chef Seth has thoughtfully incorporated Parsi dishes as a nod to the community's deep-rooted connection with Mumbai.
While exploring the limited-edition menu featuring kebabs and other specialities, The Patrani Machchi (Rs 770) stands out as a dish that Seth is unwilling to compromise on regarding portion size. This is for a good reason, as a sizable pomfret, enveloped in a green masala blend made from coconut, brown vinegar, and spices, is artfully wrapped and steam-cooked within a banana leaf before being presented at the table. The act of unwrapping the dish fills us with anticipation, as the captivating aroma of Parsi cuisine envelops our senses, leaving us eager to indulge. The fish is expertly steamed to flaky perfection, with just the right amount of masala in each delightful bite. The experience is enhanced by complementing it with the vibrant orange laganu achaar that accompanies it, introducing an additional layer of flavours to each serving. The tangy notes from the delectable mixture of grated carrots and ginger, coupled with the green chutney, truly elevate the dish. Feel free to enjoy the fryums on the side, adding to the overall enjoyment as you intermittently savour every aspect of the meal.
Travelling beyond the confines of the western region and aiming to encompass the diverse cuisines of India within a single menu undoubtedly posed a formidable challenge, and this predicament was no exception for Seth. He expresses, "In India, our culinary preferences exhibit an unparalleled and multifaceted range that transforms as one moves from one geographical area to another. Even when journeying across India, mere 30 kilometres of distance bring forth alterations in the nuances of flavours found in tur dal or urad dal." Therefore, as they embarked on the task of conceptualizing the menu, the team confronted the task of streamlining the array of dishes, strategically crafting the selection to effectively spotlight their intended offerings within a concise 15-item compilation. Seth reflects on the formidable nature of this endeavour, stating, "It has proven to be an exceedingly demanding endeavour for me, as during the menu curation process, I initially had around 30 to 40 potential dishes. The vastness of India's cultural diversity translates into a continual evolution in the subtleties of culinary creations."
Kebabs for grabs
Centered around the regional and tribal culinary traditions of India, the menu also pays homage to timeless favourites originating from the heartland near the Ganges, in places like Lucknow and Benares. Hence, our enthusiasm was well met when Seth introduced us to an array of tantalizing kebabs - Mutton Galouti Kebab (Rs 550), Mushroom Galouti Kebab (priced at Rs 495), and the Dahi Ke Kebab (Rs 440). Our initial curiosity led us to delve into the Dahi Ke Kebab, the first to capture our attention, as we took a bite of these glistening, golden-brown panko crumb-coated kebabs fashioned from curd and milk solids. These delicacies, possessing a pleasing touch of sweetness, grace the palate with a lightness that instills a desire for more, heightened by an innovative twist. Seth explains the uniqueness, sharing, "In the northern regions of India, Dahi Ke Kebabs are traditionally coated with refined flour for that specific crust. In our approach, we've deviated from tradition, employing Japanese panko crumbs to introduce an additional layer of texture."
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The Mutton Galouti Kebabs reach the pinnacle of their delectable appeal, boasting finely minced meat that's flawlessly seasoned and effortlessly dissolves in the mouth with each bite. The Mushroom rendition follows suit, retaining the same excellence albeit with a slightly coarser texture. The pâté infused with Indian spices serves as an impeccable choice for vegetarians who relish the essence of kebabs.
The succulent kebabs were followed by the Naga Pork Belly & Bamboo Shoot Stir Fry (Rs 715). For those accustomed to savouring pork belly dishes from various corners of the globe, this particular rendition is bound to bring about a delightful revelation. The dish features pork belly stir-fried in a mildly spicy red sauce, complemented by sliced bamboo shoots and bell peppers. While there exists a sense of familiarity in the flavours, the dish introduces an invigorating element of crunch that harmonizes seamlessly with the meaty pork belly slices. If you possess an inclination towards exploring the culinary landscape of Northeast Indian cuisine and share an affection for pork-based dishes, this offering undoubtedly merits a spot on your must-try list.
Focused on celebrating the diverse regional and tribal culinary heritage of India, the menu also pays tribute to beloved classics that originated from the heartland adjacent to the Ganges, in locales such as Lucknow and Benares. Consequently, our excitement was met with satisfaction when Seth introduced us to an enticing selection of kebabs - including the Mutton Galouti Kebab (Rs 550), Mushroom Galouti Kebab (priced at Rs 495), and the Dahi Ke Kebab (Rs 440). Our initial curiosity prompted us to begin with the Dahi Ke Kebab, which immediately captured our attention as we indulged in bites of these glistening, golden-brown kebabs encrusted with panko crumbs made from curd and milk solids. These delicacies offer a pleasant hint of sweetness, gracing the palate with a lightness that leaves one craving more, further heightened by an inventive twist. Seth elaborates on this uniqueness, explaining, "In the northern regions of India, Dahi Ke Kebabs traditionally feature a refined flour coating that imparts a specific crust. In our approach, we've ventured away from this tradition, opting for Japanese panko crumbs to introduce an additional layer of texture."
Going South
Following the pork dishes, Seth presents the Dhokar Dalna (Rs 550), a Bengali vegetarian delight comprising lentil cakes crafted from split chickpeas. These cakes undergo a triple cooking process before being combined with a flavorful tomato sauce, accompanied by gondhoraj lemon and kasundi ketchup. While drawing inspiration from the concept of Kosha Mangsho, a popular Bengali meat dish, the team's intention was to spotlight lesser-known creations like the Dhokar Dalna that individuals can wholeheartedly enjoy. Seth elaborates, "It's a vegetarian dish prepared with chana dal, which is deep-fried. We wok-toss it with tomato sauce and serve kasundi ketchup on the side. Given the nature of chana dal, which tends to be somewhat dense, one should be prepared for that aspect." However, the dish proves to be far from disappointing, potentially becoming a favourite among vegetarians.
Saving the best for last, Seth, who holds a personal affinity for South Indian cuisine, made it a priority to incorporate dishes from the Ponganadu, Chettinad, and Karnataka regions into the menu. While the Patrani Machchi undoubtedly earned its place as a clear favourite, Seth believes that a comprehensive exploration of India's diverse flavours would be incomplete without his personal recommendation: the Eraichi Chettinad Pepper Fry. Crafted from succulent lamb chunks infused with crushed black peppercorns, coconut essence, and curry leaf, this dish is served alongside Malabar parotha. The lamb's impeccable cooking and the well-balanced use of pepper ensure that its flavours harmonise without overpowering. Despite our satiety from the generous portions, the lamb practically melted in our mouths as we savoured a few bites paired with the flaky paratha, leaving us craving for more. The menu also boasts additional specialties, such as a Kashmiri-style Tschaman Tujji prepared with cottage cheese, a Kumaoni meal platter, and offerings like Madra and Chilli Coriander Pulao that delve into Himalayan flavours, along with an array of other regional delicacies to explore.
Though desserts are not on this menu, BrewDog invites patrons to enjoy an array of lagers that harmonise seamlessly with Indian flavours.
Where: BrewDog India, Bandra West and Lower Parel
When: Till August 31
Meal for two: Rs 2,200 plus taxes