The science of scents: An expert guide to master the art of perfume selection

In a world where fragrance has the power to evoke emotions, choosing the right one can be daunting. From earthy scents to zesty aromas, the world of perfumery offers an extensive array of fragrances. The subtleties of personal preference, occasion and season can all play a significant role in the selection process, adding to the complexity of the decision.

Some may gravitate towards the warm, comforting embrace of woody fragrances, while others might prefer the lively and uplifting tones of citrus scents. While some may find themselves captivated by the sweet, fruity notes that whisk them away to far-off orchards. In the midst of this aromatic abundance, the question arises: How do you determine which scent truly resonates with you?

Fret not. There is a way to select the fragrance that perfectly complements your personality, style and mood. To navigate this olfactory journey, Midday sat down with experienced perfumers - Ridhima Kansal and Vidushi Vijayvergiya, who shed light on the nuances of selecting the perfect fragrance.

Woody or fruity: Know the diverse kinds of fragrances
"There are innumerable fragrance profiles made from a mix of natural elements and synthesised molecules. A perfumer generally works with around 2,000 different ingredients while developing fragrances. Based on the brief, we blend ingredients to present the idea in a harmonious way," remarks Vidushi Vijayvergiya, the founder and CEO of ISAK Fragrances.

Fragrances are divided into several main families, each with a unique scent and distinct combination. Ridhima Kansal, the director of the UK-based home fragrance brand - Rosemoore, shares major fragrance groups along with their characteristics.

Floral: This category refers to the fragrance of freshly plucked flowers. For instance: Rose, Jasmine, Gardenia, Lily and more.

Fruity: Fruity fragrance is derived from the aroma of fruits including berries, peaches and apples. Lively and playful, these scents add a youthful touch to the wearer.

Spicy: This consists of warm, aromatic ingredients like nutmeg, clove and cinnamon. It's usually worn in colder seasons to exude warmth and fragrance.

Citrusy: This is dominated by zesty and refreshing citrus fruits like lemon, orange and grapefruit which not only uplifts the mood but creates a fresh ambiance.

Woody: This family contains earthy, woody scents like vetiver, sandalwood and cedarwood which evoke a sense of ambient nature that is soothing to the senses.

These fragrance families provide a system for classifying fragrances based on their core characteristics, but they blend many contemporary fragrances, incorporating elements from different categories to create unique and multifaceted olfactory experiences.

The art of applying perfume: Key guidelines

The role of seasons
Kansal reveals the class of fragrances one should opt for, depending upon the season. For spring and summer seasons - fresh, especially flowery or citrus fragrances are best. These scents produce a positive mood by capturing the liveliness and vibrancy of these seasons. In the winter season - warm, spicy and woody fragrances are preferable as they induce a soothing and inviting aura that pairs well with the chilly weather.

The season and weather play an important role in determining the fragrance one intends to wear, remarks Vijayvergia. "As per Indian heritage and Vedas, we should use cooling and fresh ingredients-based perfumes during the summers. Some such ingredients are Vetiver, rose, rajnigandha, sandalwood and mitti. During winters - we can go for warmer/woody fragrances with notes like amber, Oudh, Vanilla, Resins and Patchouli."

The role of occasion
Based on the type of occasion, one can decide the relevant fragrance to wear. For an office day, wear subtle perfumes that are also fresh and long-lasting: Patchouli, Sandalwood and Cedarwood. These sophisticated, earthy scents are appropriate for both formal and informal settings since they exude a feeling of grounding and elegance.

Vijayvergia advises against wearing strong Oudh-focused perfumes to the office. Although, a strong Oudh-based perfume could be a great extension of one's personality as an evening party wear. Additionally, citrus and floral perfumes are suitable for fun dates, adventure activities and day picnics. Apple, mango, and blackberry are fruity scents that are playful and young-smelling, adding an energising touch and making them ideal for daytime wear.

Rose, jasmine, and lavender are floral. These timeless, enduring scents are preferred for special occasions or private situations because they radiate elegance and passion. These notes help uplift our moods with sublime fragrance profiles and induce faint wellness.

We all crave a long-lasting fragrance but generally don't end up with one. Perfumers share tricks to sustain the aroma with handy tips. "As a general rule of thumb, heavier scents like woody should be sprayed first so they don't overpower their lighter counterparts like citruses," shares Vijayvergia.

Always apply fragrances on pulse points like the wrist, neck, etc., and allow it some time to develop and settle down. Keep noticing how it changes and interacts with the odour of your skin. The concentration of fragrance is directly proportional to longevity. Hence, for a long-lasting fragrance, choose a higher-concentration fragrance.

Also, using scents on well-moisturised skin enhances the longevity of the fragrance because of the hydrated base to which the scent adheres. Layering scents can do wonders. Apply a non-scented moisturiser after shower and then spray your preferred perfumes. Or, you can spray one scent on your wrists and another on your neck. Play around with different combinations and don't be afraid to experiment.

To enhance longevity and create a multi-dimensional fragrance sensation, use complementary scented items like shower gel and lotion, adds Kansal. Layering complementary fragrances like floral and citrus will help you create a unique and individualised perfume that will reflect your personality and style.
There are a few ways you can approach layering. The easiest is to find a fairly unfussy fragrance that is already built around musk or typical base notes like vanilla. Add to it, something with more complexity on top to create an appealing mix. Another option is to use a single-note perfume under or over an existing scent.

What are fragrance notes?
A fragrance contains many key components that interact in harmony to create a unique and memorable fragrance. Key features include:

Top notes: The first, volatile scents that are perceived upon application

Heart (Middle) notes: After the disappearance of top notes, heart notes form the core of the fragrance.

Base notes: Deep, long-lasting scents that emerge after the heart notes and serve to anchor the fragrance.

The interaction of these elements and part of their blend, determines the fragrance's unique olfactory experience. Top notes draw, heart notes define, and base notes linger, creating a multi-dimensional and evolving fragrance that makes each fragrance unique.

Selecting fragrance according to skin type
Picking a fragrance depends on one's personal style and the occasion - formal, informal or casual. Additionally, skin type and pH balance are other factors that influence how a scent interacts with one's skin and affects its development and longevity, shares Kansal.

Therefore, selecting scents requires an understanding of your skin. Here are some guidelines to help you choose the most suitable fragrance according to your skin type:

Normal skin
If you have normal skin, you're in luck because most fragrances tend to work well on your skin. You have the flexibility to choose a wide range of scents, from light and fresh to rich and complex. Floral, fruity, woody and citrus fragrances should all work harmoniously with your skin type.

Dry skin
Dry skin has less natural moisture, which can cause fragrances to evaporate more quickly. Opt for fragrances with richer, oil-based formulations such as perfume oils, Eau de Parfum (EDP) or parfum concentrations. Woody and oriental scents with deeper, lingering notes can work well with dry skin, as they tend to last longer.

Oily skin
Oily skin tends to retain fragrances longer, which means you may not need as much or as heavy a fragrance. Light, fresh and citrusy scents are great choices to counterbalance the natural oiliness of your skin. Eau de Toilette (EDT) or lighter concentrations can work well for oily skin types.

Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin can sometimes react to fragrances due to the alcohol or other ingredients in perfumes. It's advisable to choose fragrance-free or hypoallergenic options. If you still want to wear scents, consider applying a minimal amount of a fragrance-free moisturiser or unscented body oil to create a barrier between your skin and the perfume.

Combination skin
If your skin is a combination of oily and dry areas, consider applying a fragrance-neutral moisturiser to balance out the skin's moisture levels before applying your perfume. This will help the fragrance distribute more evenly and last longer.

Ageing skin
As skin ages, it tends to become drier. Opt for fragrances with heavier, richer bases such as woody, oriental or gourmand scents, as they can work well with ageing skin. Perfume oils and Eau de Parfum (EDP) are excellent choices for a longer-lasting scent.

It's important to consider the pH balance of one's skin when choosing a fragrance because it's directly linked with the impact on how a fragrance reacts with your skin. Testing fragrance on your inner elbow or wrist will help you determine compatibility. Harmonious balance can be ensured by using testers or samples which will help determine how a fragrance interacts with your particular skin chemistry.

Determining one's fragrance personality
Identifying your favourite scent, often referred to as your "scent personality," can be a fun and personal journey. Here are some ways shared by the perfumers to find your preference:

1. Try different fragrance categories to find which one appeals the most. Pay attention to the emotional response each aroma evokes.
2. Try the perfume on scent strips. Once shortlisted, try the fragrance on our skin. Specifically, at the pulse points. This will help you understand how the perfume will smell on you.
3. Think about the fragrance in common items like soaps or lotions that you naturally prefer. Finding your signature perfume can be done by starting with these preferences.
4. Think about any memory or emotion that you associate with a specific fragrance. Often some fragrances that bring back cherished memories match your fragrance characteristics.
5. There are multiple quizzes that are based on the science of synaesthesia (the production of a sense impression relating to one sense or part of the body by stimulation of another sense or part of the body). One can take a perfume quiz online to find their scent profile.

Vijayvergiya shares a connection between one's personality and fragrance profile: "If your radiant energy, high spirits and a heart of gold reveal your inner beauty - your right brain is devoted to soft lines and natural colours. Floral and fruity perfumes are not only your favourite but they also enhance your virtuosity and loveliness."

Remember, there are no rights or wrongs when it comes to fragrance. Your scent personality is a unique reflection of your own tastes and experiences, so embrace the scent that makes you feel good.

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