One for the Sol: Food experts weigh in on the evolution of sol kadi, Mumbai's favourite summer drink

The photo is for representational purpose only

It feels almost wrong that sol kadi - the cooling earthy suffix to every self-respecting spicy Goan and Malvan meal - just came to be. But as it turns out, that's all there is to it. "There's no deep story," says food anthropologist Kurush Dalal. "Sol kadi is purely kokum, water and coconut milk. It is a part and parcel of a landscape."

Like smoke and fire, wherever there is a kokum tree in India, it seems, there is a version of Sol kadi to be found. If you ask food historian Mohsina Mukadam for the reason behind its growing popularity beyond the Konkan belt, she would attribute it to people becoming more open about experimenting with food. "Sol kadi is available in readymade packets now," says Mukadam.

Popular throughout the Konkan coast, the dish has kokum or garcinia indica - a fruit that has remedial benefits and cooling properties - at its heart. This writer has yet to forget the taste of the unassuming pink drink which first came to her in a steel tumbler four years ago. After a sumptuous coastal food thali comprising dishes such as piquant prawn curry, an equally spicy chicken curry, and other delicacies, the sourness of kokum subdued by sweet coconut milk with hints of chilli, garlic, and coriander, was refreshing.

The popularity has also led to gourmet restaurants infusing it to create innovative dishes. The Bombay Canteen serves a dish called Sol Kadi Ceviche, which is basically made with red snapper or any white fleshed fished and sol kadi. Executive chef of Hunger Inc, Hussain Shahzad, tells us that the dish was introduced by late chef Floyd Cardoz, who was the restaurant's culinary director. "This dish was served during one of our events, it was the first or second year of the opening of The Bombay Canteen. It has been on the menu since," says chef Shahzad.

Sol Kadi Ceviche

He says chef Cardoz's version of the dish came from a special place in his heart. "He used his memories of eating fish curry and rice to recreate this dish. His idea was to do coconut curry, rice and fish. So, we did this dish with local red snapper cured with a bit of chilly oil, poured in sol kadi and black rice." Many patrons order the dish as their first course during a meal. In the wake of the pandemic, which claimed Cardoz last year, his signature variant of sol kadi is now on the delivery menu.

A traditional Sol Kadi recipe (courtesy food historian Mohsina Mukadam)

Ingredients

Kokam petals - 8 to10, Alternatively, use 3-4 tbsp of kokam extract (It is called agal and available in markets)
Grated fresh coconut - 2 cups
Cumin seed - 1 tsp
Garlic - 5 to 6 cloves
Green chilies - 1 to 2
Salt - to taste
Sugar - to taste
Fresh coriander for garnish

Method
1) Soak kokum petals in hot water for one hour. Mash the kokum in the soaked water. Strain it and keep aside.
2) Add chilies, cumin seeds, and garlic to coconut. Add one cup of warm water. Grind to fine paste.
3) Strain this paste and collect coconut milk in a bowl.
4) Repeat this procedure one more time.
5) Add kokum juice or extract, salt and sugar. Mix well. Adjust the consistency of the Sol Kadi by adding water .
6) Garnish with coriander leaves and serve chilled.